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Routes in North Buttress

Appetite For Destruction S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bucket List S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cherry Popper S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimera S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cinco De Side-pull S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death From Above S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gila Monster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Northern S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
House Always Wins, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustn't Grumble S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pre-op Therapy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prymal Instinct S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shell Shock S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Short Stop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
So Easy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown SA S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown farther left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknownfarleft S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Barroso, Unema,
Page Views: 701 total · 19/month
Shared By: Toast with Butter on Jan 21, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

I always looked at this very aesthetic line thinking it would be amazing, When I rapped down I found a handful of old 3/8 inch cobweb filled bolt holes that the Gambler might have put in. Since he wont care, I decided to bolt it up, and am really happy with how it climbs.

This climb shares the start with the unknown Ayers 11c, just left of short stop and gila monster.

One you pull the 11c opening roof, move right and up to the ledge. Continue up and right past two bolts that you should extend with runners.
Eventually you are stemming in the giant corner. Clip the bolt off to your right and transfer onto the main face of the climb. The bolt after that is a bit tricky to see, but it's next to the first huge jug on the face. Sustained 5.11 climbing follows, broken up by decent shakeouts, all the way to the tippy top of roughrider. You could even top out if you wanted.

Location

Just left of shortstop which is left of the massive chimney on the left side of the North Buttress

Protection

21 bolts, I would bring long draws for the bolt under the first roof, the two bolts after the first standing rest, and maybe another for the second to last roof. BRING A FULL 70 METER ROPE!

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
  5.11
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11
Well I just measured mine and it is only 66M long. That is short but still only 12 feet short. I would still encourage that the anchors be lowered to the last bolt for rope rubbing and to make sure those who are unaware they have a shorter rope will be safer. Jun 11, 2015
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11
I am not sure and need to measure it. Will get back to you. Jun 11, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Are you sure you had a full 70m rope, EFR? I was able to climb it without issues. Jun 10, 2015
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
 
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
 
ill add a lower anchor then when im out there next Jun 10, 2015
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11
See picture about being stranded in space. Awesome climb. I would suggest that Toast moves those anchors down to where the last bolt is. The consequences of someone lowering off the end of the rope are not worth another 10 feet of 5.7 climbing. This also would reduce rope drag while lowering. It is such a great route after pulling on to the upper wall I look forward to my next visit. May 24, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
An awesome rope-stretching route! While it is all enjoyable, the top third is spectacular. Thanks for the addition. Feb 21, 2015

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