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Routes in North Buttress

Appetite For Destruction S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bucket List S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cherry Popper S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimera S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cinco De Side-pull S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death From Above S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gila Monster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Northern S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
House Always Wins, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mustn't Grumble S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pre-op Therapy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prymal Instinct S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shell Shock S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Short Stop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
So Easy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown SA S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown farther left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknownfarleft S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Jim Scott, EFR,'12
Page Views: 1,288 total · 16/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 9, 2012
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Access Issue: Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

70M rope required. This route used to have a hard seam start but now after some thick vegetation died you can avoid this to the right. Above is some steep crack through the bulge above the break, a testy sequence up the orange face and an incredible finish. Unfortunately the big ledge and the easy slab in the middle break it up a bit so it isn't sustained enough for another star. A couple of longer quickdraws are nice to have above the crack bulge section. Once you reach the dihedral near the top an obligatory Mr. Clean pose facing out from the wall almost guarantees the ascent.

Location

Ten to fifteen feet right of the start of Pre-op Therapy.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

SummitSender
  5.11-
SummitSender  
  5.11-
I rarely comment on specific routes unless there is critical information needed for the route however this route is SO Awesome I had to comment and tell you go climb this thing!! Besides having imo way too many bolts it is a stellar route! Needs a full 70m to lower/rap off. Feb 27, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
How many clips did you skip? Feb 27, 2017
SummitSender
  5.11-
SummitSender  
  5.11-
Well I only had 12 draws on me. So how ever many bolts minus 12 is how many I skipped. Aug 1, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
So the question I asked myself when I was drilling it up was this; should I put in six bolts which is what I would need to do it, or should I put in 12 bolts so anyone can climb it. Since Jim and I had the benefit of a TR to clean it and set it up it would mean nothing personally to do it with run outs. It is a sport route so we bolted the crap out of it.

I can and do put up routes by soloing them first, sometimes ground up sometimes after TR runs to clean them. I could post them up with no pro and force everyone to TR them or not do them. That would be sort of selfish especially in the easier grades so we often put more bolts in than we need to lead them. This way boyfriends can lead them too.

Glad you had fun on it. Aug 1, 2017

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