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Routes in North Buttress

Appetite For Destruction S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
B-52 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bucket List S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cherry Popper S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chimera S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cinco De Side-pull S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death From Above S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gila Monster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Great Northern S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
House Always Wins, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustn't Grumble S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pre-op Therapy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Prymal Instinct S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shell Shock S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Short Stop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
So Easy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown SA S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown farther left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknownfarleft S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 927 total, 14/month
Shared By: Pat Mac on May 2, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. Details

Description

Tracks right of prominent prow.

Location

First route left of Shell Shock.

Protection

bolts 16 or so.

Photos

- No Photos -
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
What a fantastic line! Ultra classic. Pumpy, technical, awkward, quintessential Homestead climbing.

In my opinion this is harder than Microburst and at least as hard as Cold Fusion, both of which go at .12a. I am not sure if this says more about those two routes or this one, but either way this is full value at the grade. Feb 4, 2017
Hey Caitlin, I appreciate the beta. Sounds like what I tried the last time. I finally got back on it this weekend and did it facing left. If I grab a crappy two tiered crimp on the right face with my right hand, throw my left toe on the point just below the left hand jug I could rock on to it and easily reach the hold. Getting to the jug at the start of the crux is pretty interesting if you are short. The rest of the route was amazing.

Stink bug poop must work as a glue as the holds no longer wiggle. Apr 1, 2013
Caitlin Mac
Tempe
 
Caitlin Mac   Tempe
 
@Eric, I am 5'4 and had trouble reaching the first hold too. I held on to some holds out left, got my feet high, then got a toe hook out right on a small crimper on the corner of the arete to get high enough to get to the first hold. To stay balanced, I reached my right hand way out and around the arete, and there is a small lip that gives just enough for you to stay on. Dec 4, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Great route with variety: face, jugs, and fingers. Fantastic! Dec 3, 2012
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.11+
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.11+
I had such an amazing time on this route Saturday! I left the ground right at sunset. Plucking and swatting stink bugs from holds while fighting the building pump and fatigue from the long day to make it to the anchors just before it was too dark to see the holds. Very rewarding ascent! Oct 1, 2012
Pat Mac
Tempe
 
Pat Mac   Tempe
 
Yeah Eric. I had trouble at first with that bottom section. May 3, 2012
Spent 30 minutes working the start of this climb and was never able to figure out a sequence to reach the first good hold. I have heard how good it is and would really like to figure out something. May 3, 2012
RyanJames
  5.11d
RyanJames  
  5.11d
This climb ascends one of the cleanest and tallest portions of the North Butt(ress). A cruxy start leads to a sea of crimpers and sidepulls. Enjoy the fingercrack at the top!

All in all, this route rocks! May 3, 2012