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Routes in The Citadel

Biltong Rides Tornado S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Brother S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Citadel of Hope, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Skip School S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Planet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funk Soul Brother S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paladin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right About Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tel Aviv Miracle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West of Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wide Awake Zombie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John Warning
Page Views: 322 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 25, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Though a good route with an enjoyable crux, the upper headwall is not as solid or as enjoyable as most of the other lines in the area. The crux involves technical crimping on smooth edges.

Snake up the thin lower wall to reach easy slab climbing at the fourth bolt. The horizontal break offers a good shake, then follow good jugs over the bulge, and awkward liebacking to the anchor.

A "Paladin" is Knight-like figure of a royal court, especially in the case of the "Twelve Peers" of Charlemagne's court.

Location

Begibbing from the top of the detached flake that leans against the wall. Also the 5th bolted line from the right end of the cliff.

Protection

~10 bolts to 2BA.

Photos

Beau Skelton 1
  5.12a/b
Beau Skelton 1  
  5.12a/b
Maybe this has cleaned up since 2011? did this thing thanksgiving 2017 and it's debatably my favorite route of this year! One move wonder down low, eases up into an amazing gaston move on a thin crack feature, high foot and hurl yourself to a slanting block feature. Finishes off with a proud runout to the anchors. Do it! Nov 23, 2017

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