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Routes in The Citadel

Biltong Rides Tornado S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Brother S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Citadel of Hope, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fat Boys Skip School S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Planet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funk Soul Brother S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paladin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right About Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tel Aviv Miracle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West of Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wide Awake Zombie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: BJ Tilden
Page Views: 452 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Aug 29, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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One full route left of the Citadel. The first half of this route is not great quality rock. There is a difficult sequence between bolt 3 and 4 involving a long reach to a right hand crimper and then crossing through to a left hand sidepull and up to a right hand jug. One more bolt leads to a large horizontal that splits this section of the cliff. You get basically a no hands rest at the break.

After this the rock quality and the quality of movement improve drastically. There are 3 sequential sequences up the headwall separated by fairly decent rest stations. Expect to be reaching far between positive crimps, gastons, sidepulls, and pockets. The route sneaks left after the last bolt to the anchor. Overall a quality line, even if the start is a little crumbly.


Twelve bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.


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Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
I love them "sequential sequences". Jul 13, 2016