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Routes in The Citadel

Biltong Rides Tornado S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Brother S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Citadel of Hope, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Divine Intervention S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fat Boys Skip School S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Planet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Funk Soul Brother S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Paladin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right About Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stronghold of Decay S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tel Aviv Miracle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West of Hell S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Wide Awake Zombie S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Howe
Page Views: 603 total · 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

This stout number features a burly, sequential boulder problem clearing the obvious bulge. Fortunately there are several other attention-getting sections, making the line sustained & challenging.

Begin 12' up the ramp, making big reaches between large holds. The holds diminish at the third bolt, where interesting pockets lead to a pair of long reaches to gain the horizontal break and a good shake. A few jugs lead to a reachy sequence through sloping pockets to reach the slab. Cruise the slab to another tricky section on the tufa-coated headwall.

Location

On the left end of The Citadel, immediately left of "Right About Now" (which can be identified by the 18" hueco in the horizontal break).

Protection

~10 bolts to 2 BA. Stick Clip recommended.

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