Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
GPS: 34.4992, -119.7894
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,511 total · 14/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Jan 20, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is an evil, evil climb. I think it should be re-named "Three moves to Hell". The holds are small, the moves are big, and the crux demands a very particular body position. The crux is also the throw to the last hold, so with each try you have to do two big pulls just to get there.
An excellent and devious climb to be sure.

Location Suggest change

Start on the obvious crimp rail to the right of Heavy Traffic. Make a big first move up and right to a small gaston. Continue up the slightly bulging face.
The shorter-inclined will either need to do an extra move or two to reach the rail (and likely bump the grade a little in the process), or have to fold pads. I'm 6'0" and I can just reach.

Protection Suggest change

One pad will do you fine.

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