Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,215 total · 12/month
Shared By: Sean Denny on Jan 20, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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This is an evil, evil climb. I think it should be re-named "Three moves to Hell". The holds are small, the moves are big, and the crux demands a very particular body position. The crux is also the throw to the last hold, so with each try you have to do two big pulls just to get there.
An excellent and devious climb to be sure.


Start on the obvious crimp rail to the right of Heavy Traffic. Make a big first move up and right to a small gaston. Continue up the slightly bulging face.
The shorter-inclined will either need to do an extra move or two to reach the rail (and likely bump the grade a little in the process), or have to fold pads. I'm 6'0" and I can just reach.


One pad will do you fine.


andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Last I checked, the guidebook calls this V5. It's hard, yes, but still V5 in my opinion. Jan 21, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
... but I do understand the "Three Moves To Hell" title suggested by Nick. There are days when this devious architecture of bad crimps makes me want to cry. Then there are days when it seems manageable. Who or what decides which day will be which? Dark Forces, obviously.

That, and a nice cool breeze with evening temps. Jul 20, 2011