Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,450 total · 14/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Follow the striking line of pockets and holes up and left.

I start with my right hand in a good pocket and left on a higher positive edge. Other options exist, including a lower start. Climb through the two big holes and then stay focused on the crux top out.

There's a direct start on crimps to the left, V4.


Left side of the Trojan Boulder's east face. Right next to the road and just right of the Trojan Arete.


Crash pad, traffic controller.


Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I find it easier to start with right hand in lower pocket at chest height, and left hand on the chest height crimp out left, rather than a hands above the head start... it feels smoother moving into the higher holds rather than a strong overhand crank to begin with. It makes the footwork smoother I think. I was scared for a long time about the fall from a failed topout. This boulder is a good one to learn how to fall on, as it is actually not a bad fall if you have a good pad (or 2) and a spotter. Sep 5, 2011
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
We did a fun little problem just to the left of Heavy Traffic today. Start on a couple edges low and to the right of the sit start to Trojan Arete, head straight up through some small slopey crimps and edges and link up with heavy traffic at the big jug. Nice little techy problem.

If you're feeling spicy do the eliminate by not using any holds on H.T. and go straight up. The holds are all there, just going to take some commitment. Contrived maybe but a sweet line. Feb 24, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Yeah, those little "contrivances" have been done since the 80's. I remember Joel (long-haired variety) showing me his circuit on that face ten years ago. Feb 24, 2013
FA Doug Hsu early 70s I think. Nov 29, 2014