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Routes in Trojan Boulder

Arete of Troy V0 4
Big Deal V5-6 6C+
Big Traffic V4 6B
Devils, The V2 5+
Easy traverse V0 4
Edges Of Doom V4 6B
Heavy Traffic V3 6A
Old Soft Hsu V3 6A
Steve's Traverse V9 7C
Trojan Arete, The V8+ 7B+
Troy Lite V0- 4-
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,297 total, 14/month
Shared By: Joe Stern on Jul 11, 2010
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Follow the striking line of pockets and holes up and left.

I start with my right hand in a good pocket and left on a higher positive edge. Other options exist, including a lower start. Climb through the two big holes and then stay focused on the crux top out.

There's a direct start on crimps to the left, V4.


Left side of the Trojan Boulder's east face. Right next to the road and just right of the Trojan Arete.


Crash pad, traffic controller.


Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
FA Doug Hsu early 70s I think. Nov 29, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Yeah, those little "contrivances" have been done since the 80's. I remember Joel (long-haired variety) showing me his circuit on that face ten years ago. Feb 24, 2013
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
We did a fun little problem just to the left of Heavy Traffic today. Start on a couple edges low and to the right of the sit start to Trojan Arete, head straight up through some small slopey crimps and edges and link up with heavy traffic at the big jug. Nice little techy problem.

If you're feeling spicy do the eliminate by not using any holds on H.T. and go straight up. The holds are all there, just going to take some commitment. Contrived maybe but a sweet line. Feb 24, 2013
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I find it easier to start with right hand in lower pocket at chest height, and left hand on the chest height crimp out left, rather than a hands above the head start... it feels smoother moving into the higher holds rather than a strong overhand crank to begin with. It makes the footwork smoother I think. I was scared for a long time about the fall from a failed topout. This boulder is a good one to learn how to fall on, as it is actually not a bad fall if you have a good pad (or 2) and a spotter. Sep 5, 2011