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Routes in Trojan Boulder

Arete of Troy V0 4
Big Deal V5-6 6C+
Big Traffic V4 6B
Devils, The V2 5+
Easy traverse V0 4
Edges Of Doom V4 6B
Heavy Traffic V3 6A
Old Soft Hsu V3 6A
Steve's Traverse V9 7C
Trojan Arete, The V8+ 7B+
Troy Lite V0- 4-
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Dunno... been climbed for ages.
Page Views: 378 total, 6/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jun 1, 2012
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A head's-up problem on good rock. For some reason, the holds remind me of the holds on Blitzkrieg. Anyways, start with hands on small stuff, head up and right. Top-out is on the insecure side and a bit funky, so get good spotters.

Location

If you're facing the Trojan Boulder, look to the left of the Trojan Arete, and this is the first line on the left side of the big oak tree.

Protection

Pads. I had several to level out the poor landing.

Photos

Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
Found some new beta on the sit this morning. I'd say still V6 albeit a tad harder than before the hold broke. Apr 8, 2013
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
So true to SB form the 1st slopey crimp that you throw to for Dust Devils at the lip of the cave is half gone now(I broke it...sorry). Still goes but that move is definitely harder and more devious(it's now a bad two finger slopey pinch instead of a 4 finger crimp). Was V6, now hard V6. Sweet problem regardless though.

Also you can top out straight up as well using some little patina edges (probably won't be there for too long though). Feb 14, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
The sit-start to The Devils is called Dust Devil and is rated V6 in Bob's book. I would agree. Here's the beta:

1) Begin with hands matched on flat rail in cave.
2) Make some hard deadpoints to lip of cave.
3) top out via The Devils. Jun 1, 2012