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Routes in Upper Beach

Black Gold S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Co-ed Volleyball T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corona S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dangling Monkey T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Doo-doo in my Tu-Tu T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fame and Money T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Go With The Flow T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hot Pocket T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moon Juice S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nurse Rathcet AKA Thai Phai S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pickpocket T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Sky T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jeremy Nelson, Albert Newman, Rob Tomczak
Page Views: 766 total, 9/month
Shared By: -Jeremy Nelson on Nov 20, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Chapel of the Rock, Upper Beach Area

Route Finding:
Maybe tricky in Sedona, park on the north side of the road, the last pull out before the gate to the church. From here follow the trail north, following rock buffs and ledges to the first major and obvious drainage. Scurry up this for a ways until the only Limestone band, head left. Work you way on a vague trail that passes between the main rock feature and a short rotten looking spire. Continue around and up the next drainage, a few moves with gain access to the Upper Beach. Looking up at the wall, pickpocket is the large and dominant right facing dihedral on the left side of the drainage. Follow narrow trail to base of the climb.

Description

3 bolts protect the thin and loose section of the rock, small gear to bolts to big gear to the top. Fun route, good protection.

The last route to be established in Sedona of 2003.

Gear

Standard Rack to 4.5”, double 2” & 4” -10 runners- a 60 m rope

Photos

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Gear (Stoppers, Alien TCU's Mr Blue! Camalot Big Cam # 4 or #5 climb thin crack system, work through 2-3 bolts and good ledge. Continue to follow Off-width crack to the top with chains and rap anchor. Can walk the #4/5 Cams. Can climb higher to view at top and down climb back to anchor. Nov 20, 2010