Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: October 2010
Page Views: 201 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 16, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Pumpy moves to get off the ground, followed by delicate smear/laybacking on extremely questionable gear. As it has a fixed anchor at the top, this makes a very good, 3-star TR. As a lead, well, it's effectively a free solo.

Location

30' right of Peney for your Freedom, this route begins as a horizontal rail, then curves up right into a thin, pillar flake that trends slightly left as it goes up a steep face.
Descent: either lower via fixed anchor or walk off climber's left.

Protection

One .75 or #1 Camalot for the starting moves, then microcams, brass nuts, and small tricams for the rest...and don't fall.
Fixed anchor on top.

Photos

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Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9-
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9-
Definitely best as a top rope, some of the flakes used for gear are going to break off with use (flex) over time, and will probably blow if gear is placed behind them and fallen on.

This is definitely a fun climb with good moves. I agree that this is on the softer side of 9. May 7, 2012