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Routes in TeePee Wall

A Peney for your freedom T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
English Channel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool in the Forest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Man, Half Wit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Kissing Pigs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oddy's Crack of Horror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise & Shine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rope Monster TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sauron's Bolt of Horror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Woodland Idiot T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Yodellaybackloon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: October 2010
Page Views: 189 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 16, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Pumpy moves to get off the ground, followed by delicate smear/laybacking on extremely questionable gear. As it has a fixed anchor at the top, this makes a very good, 3-star TR. As a lead, well, it's effectively a free solo.

Location

30' right of Peney for your Freedom, this route begins as a horizontal rail, then curves up right into a thin, pillar flake that trends slightly left as it goes up a steep face.
Descent: either lower via fixed anchor or walk off climber's left.

Protection

One .75 or #1 Camalot for the starting moves, then microcams, brass nuts, and small tricams for the rest...and don't fall.
Fixed anchor on top.

Photos

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Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.9-
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.9-
Definitely best as a top rope, some of the flakes used for gear are going to break off with use (flex) over time, and will probably blow if gear is placed behind them and fallen on.

This is definitely a fun climb with good moves. I agree that this is on the softer side of 9. May 7, 2012