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Routes in TeePee Wall

A Peney for your freedom T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
English Channel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool in the Forest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Man, Half Wit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Kissing Pigs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oddy's Crack of Horror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise & Shine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rope Monster TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sauron's Bolt of Horror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Woodland Idiot T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Yodellaybackloon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Autumn 2011 Michael Gray & Tom Lane
Page Views: 93 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Apr 18, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

The moves may not be as difficult as the rating suggests, but placing/removing gear in the midst of them certainly ups the ante sufficiently to justify the grade.
Difficult moves up the initial seam and past the small overhang near the base of the route (avec 1 bolt) gain a stance below the remainder of this route: an overhanging crack/layback edge. No routefinding difficulties here: obtain the ledge.

Location

Technically on the "Land of Overhangs" Wall, but it lies directly above and left of the main TeePee Wall: the steep face with this unmistakeable splitter crack.

Protection

Tight tips to full hand size. One bolt enroute.
Rappel off tree anchor, or walk climber's left 100 yards to scramble down to the base.

Photos

Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
There's also a walkoff climber's right that takes you down to the base of Long Play.

This is left of the TeePee Wall, and although it appears to be its own section of wall, it's unlikely any more routes will be developed here so the HOL3/Mordor Wall designation could probably be dropped (?) and that other section completely removed from MP. May 7, 2012

More About Sauron's Bolt of Horror

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