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Routes in TeePee Wall

A Peney for your freedom T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
English Channel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Fool in the Forest T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Half Man, Half Wit T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Kissing Pigs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oddy's Crack of Horror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rise & Shine T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rope Monster TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sauron's Bolt of Horror T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Woodland Idiot T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Yodellaybackloon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: 2014
Page Views: 42 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Dec 15, 2016
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description

A couple cool moves interspersed with some funky tree ledges and dirt slopes.
Climb up the left-facing flake to reach a good crack on its left, then follow the crack 3m until it is possible to move left to another crack and take it to a narrow tree ledge. Slip between two trees, make a hard move off the ledge onto a bulging face, then move up and left, the final feet going up a dirt slope to a good ledge at the base of another cliff (this being the Mad Cows Wall).
Note that this route marks the start of the "Animal" link-up, which continues by going up Mad Cows (5.10b), Chokin' Chickens (5.8), Animal Farm (5.10b), and finally Animal Charm (5.10c). Many variations are possible along the way.

Location

Technically on the "Land of Overhangs", but within sight, and up and left of, the TeePee Wall. Look for a pair of right-leaning hand cracks near the center of the face (this is climber's left of the start of Sauron's Bolt of Horror )

Protection

Standard Adirondack Trad Rack. No fixed gear or anchors.
At the top, it is possible to walk off climber's left to reach a gully going back down to the base.

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