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Half Man, Half Wit

5.9- R, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
FA: October 2010
New York > Adirondacks > G: Indian Lake… > Crane Mountain > TeePee Wall

Description

Pumpy moves to get off the ground, followed by delicate smear/laybacking on extremely questionable gear. As it has a fixed anchor at the top, this makes a very good, 3-star TR. As a lead, well, it's effectively a free solo.

Location

30' right of Peney for your Freedom, this route begins as a horizontal rail, then curves up right into a thin, pillar flake that trends slightly left as it goes up a steep face.
Descent: either lower via fixed anchor or walk off climber's left.

Protection

One .75 or #1 Camalot for the starting moves, then microcams, brass nuts, and small tricams for the rest...and don't fall.
Fixed anchor on top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] Definitely best as a top rope, some of the flakes used for gear are going to break off with use (flex) over time, and will probably blow if gear is placed behind them and fallen on.

This is definitely a fun climb with good moves. I agree that this is on the softer side of 9. May 7, 2012
Jess Sullivan
 
[Hide Comment] I'm sure this was pretty fun at some point. Last weekend, many chunks of rock came off while TRing it. We decided to bail partway through because we were literally to remove >1' in diameter chunks of rock by tapping with sticks above where we were. My rope brushed against the wall (I was still on the ground) and a small chunk came off. FWIW, some of the pieces that came off were probably useful holds. With so much great climbing at Crane, this felt too risky for me, even on TR. May 5, 2020