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Routes in Southwest Face

Bush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cubes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dan Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
En Passant V0 4
Little Bishop V0 4
Retroshrub T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V0 4
Rope Eater T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 596 total, 7/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 10, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Rope Eater is a fun crack climb with a bouldery start off some cheatstones to get established in the bomb bay wide section. Sleaze right to the lip of the roof, then boulder out the roof section on good holds and jams, before finishing on the .6/.7 handcrack section.

This climb is indeed a rope eater, and if you hang on either boulder problem the rope will get sucked into the crack. this happened to us, and we were able to retrieve it by having the second hang on a couple cams, untie, and pull the rope through from above.

Location

about 80 feet left of Bush Crack. on the approach, it looks like an easy corner crack, when you get close in behind the boulders you see the roof start. cheatstones at the base.

Protection

fingers to hand sized cams, I placed a thin nut as well. largish cams for the anchors.

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