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Routes in Southwest Face

Bush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cubes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dan Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
En Passant V0 4
Little Bishop V0 4
Retroshrub T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V0 4
Rope Eater T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 908 total, 10/month
Shared By: Ryan Ray on Sep 20, 2010
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is the wide crack just to the left of Bush Crack. It starts off about fist sized and turns into a squeeze chimney towards the top. Great practice for squeeze chimney technique.

Protection

medium at the bottom to large at the top. You can prob use a 5 or 6 camalot towards the mid point. There is also a horizontal crack you can place some smaller gear in before moving into the squeeze chimney...Then just run it to the top. Good heel to toe jams down low.

Photos

Per the Dome Drivers Manual this route is called Dan Jam and goes at 5.7, Little Dome Driver calls it V0- Jan 8, 2016
JohnPaulO
Cedar Park, TX
 
JohnPaulO   Cedar Park, TX
 
Loved this off-width crack! Fantastic practice for arm bars, heel toe, a knee jam or two, maybe a couple leavittation moves, then transitioning into the squeeze chimney. If only both sections were longer!

You can layback the bottom if your just interested in the squeeze. You top rope it by setting up a trad anchor up top. May 30, 2013