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Routes in Southwest Face

Bush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cubes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dan Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
En Passant V0 4
Little Bishop V0 4
Retroshrub T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V0 4
Rope Eater T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 2,198 total, 16/month
Shared By: sirhctrebor on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

A nice two section climb beginning with a flake to a good stance followed by a sweet finger crack to the top.

Location

Look to the right of the southwest area for a wall sitting behind various large boulders. Bush Crack leaves a small space marked by a tree.

Protection

Bush Crack requires a standard rack with hand sizes up top to build the anchor.

Photos

Great climb, although as other's have pointed out it's rather short (par for the course for Erock I suppose though). Def a bit harder than some 9s in the park but still pretty easy to bag once your technique is solid. Anchors are a wee bit tricky to set, still not sure which side of the crack is best as climbers left has the possibility of falling into the crack and climbers right as the possibility of the masterpoint going further right down the slope ruining any equalization you had in the anchor (then again equalization is mostly a myth anyway). If you set it climber's right, you should directly anchor into at least one solid piece to set the master point over the slopey edge, it would be super easy to fall off. Dec 3, 2017
DennisL
Bishop, CA
DennisL   Bishop, CA
Fun route, though short!

Plenty of stances and bomber locks/jams from which to plug as much gear as you want. Cams up to #1 will let you sew it up as much as you want.

Setting an anchor that keeps the rope from angling down through the crack is tricky. Mar 19, 2014
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
Nice little problem! Once you get into the crack, placing gear forces a loss of expediency. Best to limit pro to one, maybe two small cams. As the caption says, it's over way too soon. Aug 5, 2007
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
This crack is great, friendly and just a little harder than 5.9. Sweet addition to the site! Jul 5, 2007