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Routes in Rough Canyon

Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cousin It T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lemon Squeezer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Tabeguache Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1 R
Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ryan Cowan, Julian Poush, Skyeler Congdon, Spring, 2007
Page Views: 595 total, 7/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Jun 25, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1: Fun face climbing past small gear leads to groove climbing. Then a final traverse out right to a two bolt anchor. 90-100 feet.

Pitch 2: traverse back out left to a beautiful, right-facing, fingers corner. Looks and climbs very similar to the crux pitch of Cloud Tower. Climb fingers to a pod, then tips out a roof. Finish with face climbing protected by two bolts. Rap off of a two bolt anchor. 65-75 feet.

Notes: Pitches one and two can be combined with little rope drag. If toproping the second pitch it is advisable to leave a piece of gear in the tips roof; otherwise the rope may get stuck.

Location

This route is located 250 yards to the right of Eve of War. It is most easily identified by the varnished, beautiful, right-facing, finger corner 100 feet off the ground. It is difficult to miss.

Protection

A single set of cams from #00 Metolius to #4 Camalot. Doubles in #0 Metolius. Triples in #1 - #2 Metolius. A single standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.

Photos

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Skyeler Congdon
his van
  5.11c
Skyeler Congdon   his van
  5.11c
The second pitch of this route may be one of GJ's best finger cracks. It's debatable. Definitely a must do for the seasoned Creek-fiend who wants less crowds and more varnish...I remember thinking this route is what Fingers in a Lightsocket must have felt like 20 years ago!

There might be a few more new lines waiting on this wall, but for the most part the Rough Wall leaves first ascentionists disappointed. If you climb this route, check out the "Johnny Ringo Project": it starts in the same spot as Maximum Impact but moves out left to a crucial orange TCU placement and then into the danger zone where I tried to drill a bolt on lead- not so smart. It'll go.... Aug 8, 2010