Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nate Wilson and Bradley Sheneman
Page Views: 205 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bradley Sheneman on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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150 meters up canyon from Uncle Fester on top of a rock pile. Shade can be found here in the AM.


The crux is at the first overhang, but you really don't get much rest through the whole climb except for right before the first overhang. The route has 2 bolts beside the flake, because the flake is fairly thin, and we thought it would break if any gear was fallen on.

Oct. 17, 2018: we decided the bolts for the first pitch were in the wrong location, so we pulled them and extended the route another 25 feet. This will make it so the second pitch doesn't have as much rope drag. The bolts are past the second overhang and below the third one, hard to see from the bottom of the route, but if you step back, they can be seen. The second roof adds a lot to the climb and keeps the first pitch the same rating of 5.11 b/c. Nate Wilson led it without falling or hanging. The rest of us hung as we followed (Brad Sheneman, Dave Brito, KC Luis).

Nate had a little issue with rope drag from a piece placed right and below the first overhang. We figured if you placed just below the roof and as far left as possible with a 0.3 Camalot and added a long sling, the rope would stay out of the crack once you pull the roof. It wasn't an issue until after the roof was below the lead climber.

If you can climb 5.11 trad, this is a must do route!


A full desert rack including nuts. Bring extra 0.75s and a long runner for under the roof. Watch out for rope drag if you overprotect just before reaching the first roof.