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Routes in Rough Canyon

Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cousin It T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lemon Squeezer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Tabeguache Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1 R
Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Skyeler Congdon, Julian Poush
Page Views: 98 total, 1/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Apr 29, 2007
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The thin lieback at the start is probably the crux, though moving up on face holds once the crack widens is also a bit tricky. With traffic, this climb will get better and better. It's still a little loose and lichen abounds. Hey, maybe I should call it "Lichen Abounds".

From the top, walk off to the left either back to the car or over to Dead President. This is much easier than trying to get back to the trail from the top of Gibbous.

Location

As you hike down Rough, the canyon gets narrow as you pass a couple waterfalls (dry falls most of the year). At the second big falls, the trail cuts west to the opposite side of the canyon. Before crossing the creek, look up to the east wall - you will see a very attractive, hanging dihedral marked by a stellar finger crack at the start. This is Waxing Gibbous.

Protection

Standard rack. A big cam or two for the timid leader not comfortable running it out. There is NO fixed anchor at the top.

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