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Routes in Rough Canyon

Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cousin It T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lemon Squeezer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Tabeguache Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1 R
Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 840 total, 34/month
Shared By: stan wagon on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a slot canyon, usually climbed in sneakers with no rope. The crux is a chockstone near the end that one must jam up and over. When one reaches the large open air area after leaving the slot, one has three choices:

1. End as most people do by descending the class 3 gully; or

2. Cut back up and right to higher ground and an elegant Bonus Slot to reach the top of the hill, or

3. Enter a very deeply cut slot with a difficult move (5.8) to surmount. We call this variation the Iron Lung because of the extreme tightness. The variation was, we think, first done by Bill Briggs and Stan Wagon in March 2015. From the end of that, one would also finish with the Bonus Slot.

For options 2 and 3 one can descend easy ground directly to the stream crossing near the car.

A detailed trip report is at the first two links here


From the Mica Mine Trailhead, head down to the trail junction and then down Rough Canyon for under a mile. After a 3rd class drop near a pouroff, the trail traverses a large ledge. Soon after this ledge, head up and right to the start of the Squeezer. The start is located at

(38 degrees, 58' 49.9", 108 degrees, 37' 20.9").


All this is usually done with no protection.