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Routes in Rough Canyon

Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cousin It T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lemon Squeezer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Tabeguache Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1 R
Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rob Pizem, Ben Rueck
Page Views: 91 total · 1/month
Shared By: rob pizem on Dec 19, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a three pitch route up a huge dihedral that culminates in a wonderful roof crack 0.5 - 0.75 cams! The first two pitches are a wide corner and can be a bit spicy due to thinking that everything is going to break. We cleaned a bunch off the lower 2 pitches, and I feel it's pretty safe, but I am sure that someone will find more loose rock.

Location

100 yards to the right of the Tab. Tower. It is the only dihedral that runs from bottom to top of the wall. A mishmash of options to take up up the dihedral. We choose the most obvious and weakest line of resistance. South face and perfect winter route. Both days on it were sunny and 40 degrees and able to be climbed in a t-shirt.

Protection

1 #6, 2 #5s, 2 #4s, 2 #3s, 2 #2s, 1 #1, 4 #0.75s, 4 #0.5 1s, #0.4.

Each belay has a 2 bolt rap anchor.

Photos

rob pizem  
 
Pitch 1 is a 5.10 with some moves past blocks that you think will break. I pulled on them and removed the loose stuff. They may sound hollow, but they seem pretty sturdy. Belay at ledge and 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 starts up the dihedral and out the roof (5.11 -). The gear under the roof should be slung or back cleaned in order to prevent rope drag (keep that #6 for after the roof). The flake at the top of the pitch seems sturdy enough. You will know what I mean when you get there. Belay on ledge 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 The rack for the last pitch is 1 #5 at the beginning of the roof and then the 0.5 and 0.75s, that is all that you need. You could place a 2 and 4 before the roof, but it is easy climbing above the anchor to get to the roof. Dec 19, 2011