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Routes in Rough Canyon

Bromance S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cousin It T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Dead President T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eve of War T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Guantastic T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junk Ride, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Lemon Squeezer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Maximum Impaction T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rough Rider (thanks d-ron) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Solar Impact T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Tabeguache Tower T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1 R
Uncle Fester T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waxing Gibbous T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bill Duncan, Steve Anderton, Matt Simpson, FFA: Ben Rueck & Rob Pizem
Page Views: 1,489 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bill Duncan on Aug 14, 2006
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

It has fine climbing on good rock with an excellent view of Rough Canyon and Grand Mesa from a very small, 1 person summit. It is located near Grand Junction, east of Colorado National Monument. The route ascends an obvious crack system on the east face.

Pitch 1: Begin on a thin crack (A1/C1), follow this until a blocky section is reached which can be free climbed (5.8) to a good belay ledge atop a large block. 120 feet (37m)

Pitch 2: Climb a fist crack (5.8) to a large bombay chimney. Move left around a huge fin inside the chimney and climb some offwidth and squeeze to a small roof, (5.9). Aid the roof (A0, #4 Camalots) and climb 30 unprotected feet (9m) up a squeeze chimney (The Time Warp), then past some loose rock to a 2 drilled-pin belay at the saddle, 5.9R. 150 feet (46m).

Pitch 3: Aid climb with Beaks in drilled holes and a couple of Knifeblades to a 2 drilled-pin anchor 10 feet (3m) below the summit, (A1). Scramble to the summit with a leash.

Descent: Rap to the anchors at the saddle at the top of the 2nd pitch. Rap to the west, to the saddle between the tower and the wall. Scramble down and to the north to some webbing around a large block on the opposite side of the gully. Rap to the ground.

Location

Park at the Tabeguache Trail parking area and hike 1/4 mile (.4 km) south on a rough road to a small canyon. Go left or east, following this canyon about 1/2 mile (.8 km) to where the canyon joins the large valley of Rough Canyon; some scrambling down will be involved. Tabeguache Tower will be obvious at this point, 10 minutes up the hill to the south. The tower is also visible from the rim of the canyon, a short hike down the Tabeguache trail.

Protection

Rack: Standard desert rack with 3 #4 Camalots, 1 #5 Camalot, 2 #4 Big Bros, 3 KBs, 6 baby angles (1/2"), 2 5/8" angles, 3 Bird Beaks.

Photos

Bill Duncan
Jamestown, CO
 
Bill Duncan   Jamestown, CO
 
1/2" deep holes are faster to drill than 4" deep holes, and bolt ladders are overkill. One places a bolt once in a while. Besides, beaks are fun.
FWIW, Jesse Zacher may have added some gear on this pitch a few years ago. Mar 31, 2015
A beak ladder? It seems to me that if one drills a hole, he should install a bolt. What is the thinking here? Jan 2, 2015
rob pizem
  5.12 C0
rob pizem  
  5.12 C0
I don't mean to give it an aid rating, but I was unable to take it off.
The route goes 5.12, 5.11, 5.12-.
One 60 or 70 meter rope to get down.
It faces the south and can be climbed on a cold day in the sun!
There are anchors at the summit ASCA and at the saddle for rappel ASCA. A worthy adventure for those who love desert sandstone. Rap off the back into the gully, and then walk over to the other side for the final bolted rap station. Mar 24, 2013
rob pizem
  5.12 C0
rob pizem  
  5.12 C0
Ben Rueck and I freed this route at 5.12. Bring some thin pieces for the first pitch and gear to 5 inches. Doubles from the smallest stuff you have will work out great! Super climbing on pitch 1, and pitch 2 has a nice roof with a great squeeze chimney. Mar 23, 2013