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Routes in Bejesus Boulder

Bejesus V4-5 6B+
Brother John V8 7B
Holy Bejesus V4 6B PG13
Tomes Arete V4 6B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, Alpine, 14 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 770 total, 8/month
Shared By: Lanky on Jun 2, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Start sitting in a hole, using a good left and decent right crimp in a crack feature. Stab your way into a good left hand crimp and a vicious right hand quartz razor. A big move to a jug, some tree and boulder avoidance technique, and an easier but tallish topout finish the process. Hard, sharp, and a little squeezed.

Location

Around the corner and in a hole to the right of Bejesus. Head up the hill behind Nemesis Traverse following vague social trails. Tricky to find unless you know what you're looking for.

Protection

A couple pads and a spotter are a good idea. There's a sharp block right behind you when you're in the crux.

Photos

- No Photos -
Bill Patton 1
Underhill
Bill Patton 1   Underhill
there are two versions of this. There is a stand start that I think goes around v4 that john tome first did. He was reluctant to name it so i called it "brother john". The harder (much harder) version goes sit down - in which case all other boulders are off. Very hard to keep your right foot from touching the back boulder face - crux. I would call the sit v8. not sure who did the fa of the sit version. i've never heard it called tome's arete - although he for sure did the fa of the stand version. Jun 29, 2015
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
No idea. Only got on it once about 6 years ago and I have the memory of a goldfish, so... Jun 8, 2015
eddysamson
  V8-
eddysamson  
  V8-
Hey Lanky any idea if the rock to the left of the tree on this is considered 'off'? My tree avoidance technique was to put my left foot around the other side of the tree so I had right foot to the right of the tree and left foot on the left almost straddling it (but without touching it). Jun 5, 2015
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
I'd be happy to give up ownership of this page to someone more local. I added it a few years back because there were very few problems in this section. Jun 5, 2015
eddysamson
  V8-
eddysamson  
  V8-
Okay got this thing today, almost flashed it but messed up the top out. Its pretty cool, not sure why it has only 1 star. I didn't hate any of the moves and the so called quartz razor was tame compared to other sharp crimps. There's not many good 8's around the notch so this thing is worth climbing. Jun 4, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Bill Patton told me this was also known as 'Tome's Arete' (not to be confused with Tome's Roof) which is why I added that.

As to your question, yes, I believe the chalked line you saw is in fact 'Brother John'. I never tried it so I can't comment on the grade, but Bill seemed confident that it was an 8. May 24, 2015
eddysamson
  V8-
eddysamson  
  V8-
I found Bejeesus easily enough but where the hell is this thing? I saw chalk on some holds far around the right corner from Bejeesus but it looked really easy with a ton of hold options, couldn't have been an 8. May 24, 2015
eddysamson
  V8-
eddysamson  
  V8-
This isn't Tomes. Tomes is down the hill from the outhouse (now the remains of it) this is actually pretty far from Tomes since its up the mountainside a bit. May 16, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
I believe this is also known as 'Tome's Arete'.

If you're having a hard time finding this boulder, check out the photos and accompanying descriptions that I uploaded under 'Bejesus'. They will help you find both that problem and this problem (since they're on the same boulder). Oct 5, 2013