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Routes in The Bone Doctor

Bloody Sunday V10- 7C+
Filet of Finger V7 7A+
Mindstream V12+ 8A+
Misery Direct V5-6 6C+
Misery Left V6 7A
Nemesis Traverse V5 6C
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Type: Boulder, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,727 total · 25/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Sep 30, 2009
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

The "Nemesis Traverse" is marked by a hard start, followed by a fun traverse, and then a necky finish.

Sit start this problem on the far right side of the boulder/roof directly in front of the lot.

Figure out how you are going to master the start, then get into the fun traverse on mostly large hold.

As your endurance dwindles, begin to think about how you're going to turn the roof at the far left end. Mantel, thrutch, and claw your way over the roof at the end, and celebrate.

Location

Large boulder with the low roof/ traversing arete directly in front of the lot.

Protection

Multiple pads help reduce the pucker effect.

Photos

Lanky
Tired
  V5
Lanky   Tired
  V5
The start is by far the hardest move. The topout is awkward, but I didn't find it intimidating. Jun 11, 2010
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  V5
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
  V5
Great problem. Using a high right heel above the starting hands and an unexpected intermediate right hand before bumping up to the horizontal pinch above helped me unlock the start. Lots of spectators glamour from the parking lot pathway. Jul 10, 2011
Graham O.
  V5-
Graham O.  
  V5-
One move wonder, really. The problem eases up to v2 after the first move. Oct 10, 2016

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