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Routes in Bejesus Boulder

Bejesus V4-5 6B+
Brother John V8 7B
Holy Bejesus V4 6B PG13
Tomes Arete V4 6B
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, Alpine
FA: Colin Rickert
Page Views: 1,310 total, 14/month
Shared By: Colin R on Apr 16, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

This is an obvious face climb that starts on the crimps you see in the photo and stays left of the large holds until you get onto the face which is a little highball and spicy (some nice exposure at the top).

Location

Crimpy face climb located uphill from the main parking lot area (I think uphill and behind Nemesis), the Classic V5 traverse right at the parking lot). If anyone has a better description please feel free to speak up.

Protection

pads
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Sounds like you got yourself an FA. Feel free to add it to MP... Jun 8, 2015
eddysamson
  V5
eddysamson  
  V5
Bill said he thought Benny might have worked the line but he traversed left around the corner (which has more of those same crimps). My line goes straight up those nice crimps just like Bejesus, very very similar climb and yet it only uses one of the same holds and its a foot. Calling it Holy Bejesus, easy 5. Jun 5, 2015
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Not to my knowledge. Could be an FA.... May 25, 2015
eddysamson
  V5
eddysamson  
  V5
Colin do you know if the line directly to the left of it has been done before? Starts on underclings like 1-1.5 feet to the left of the Bejesus start. It was very similar and I ended up climbing right into Bejesus but I think it may be possible to go straight up. May 25, 2015
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
I've done the problem both with and without the large flake. With it, the problem is more V4, without it is closer to V5 (hence V4/5). We skipped it and moved left both to make the problem harder and because the moves were cool with a nice flow continuing on the small crimps. Use it if you want but the FA was done without it. May 25, 2015
eddysamson
  V5
eddysamson  
  V5
Why is the huge flake on the face ignored? It seems like all the difficulty is at the start climbing the crimps. It took me like 3-4 hard moves to get to the flake and it seemed completely natural to go for the flake after that point since it felt like the hard climbing was over. Not a big fan of eliminates but I guess I'll try it next time without the flake. May 24, 2015
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Christian,

Thanks for the directions - this boulder can be a bit tricky to find.

FYI - I am not sure what the top is like anymore but I remember cleaning lichen as I was climbing which made it feel a bit sketch on the FA. Perhaps some of that stuff has been cleaned. Nov 22, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V4-5
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V4-5
I've submitted a few photos to help people find this boulder from 'Patton's Arete'. I've also submitted a photo of the starting hold and general line of travel so that it is clearer. As per Julian's comment, I believe the line is meant to 'avoid' the obvious juggy flake out right on the slab.

So, basically you start sitting, matched on a juggy sidepull flake. Move left and up via some long moves betwen good crimps/edges, avoiding the juggy flake out right. Once established on the face, continue up the easy highball slab utilizing any and all holds.

Hope that helps people find and enjoy this wonderful boulder! Oct 5, 2013
Keyan P
Brooklyn, NY
Keyan P   Brooklyn, NY
I'm having trouble finding this, does anyone have better directions? Jul 29, 2013
Lanky
Tired
  V4-5
Lanky   Tired
  V4-5
Jeffrey, if I remember right, you start sitting on a big block with your feet kind of tucked into the gap b/w the block and the problem. Crux is right off the ground, and you kind of have to avoid a jug on the right on purpose. Didn't feel sketch to me at all; the climbing higher up is easy. Jul 12, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Wish I had a better description of this so I know if I went up it! I looked through to see if I have pictures of it from the past weekend, but alas... none. :( Jul 11, 2011
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
  V4 PG13
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
  V4 PG13
Nice! I think I got the 3rd ascent of this thing! Sketch-eeee! Apr 19, 2010