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Routes in Flying Flatiron

Birth and Transmogrification TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
East Face Complete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Passage, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Less Talk, More Sauce T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Satan's Toy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Weak Sauce T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Paul Glover, Kirk Speers
Page Views: 355 total · 3/month
Shared By: Paul Glover on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


This is the short wild overhang to the right to the Devil's Arch cave about 80m. Climb easy ground (5.4) to the beginning of a left traversing crack on the lower right side of the overhang. Put in a 3.5 Camalot with an extended runner. Traverse up and left (5.10+) placing shallow cams (a 3 Camalot to get started, then medium cams) and beware a massive chopper block you must straddle and climb over. Then head up to the base of the roof. Place a small cam (I put in a yellow Alien) and head up right towards the obvious giant bucket and top out. Also possible to head left on easy ground (5.8) and skip the roof but who would want to do that?


Cams to #3.5 Camalot. many choices for anchor building on top


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