Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 39.953, -105.28818
FA: Paul Glover, Kirk Speers
Page Views: 1,080 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul Glover on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is the short wild overhang about 20m right of the Devil's Arch Cave that looks ready to topple into talus at any moment. Claw up easy junk in a gully (5.0), then traverse left on a crack crack placing ok enough gear (#3.5 Camalot followed by shallow, mid-size cams with extended draws). Straddle a massive chopper block on your way to the roof. I put in a yellow Alien in under the roof, then forced the climbing right towards the obvious giant bucket at the lip. Also it is possible to exit left instead, which looks easy and far less inspired. I've led this a couple time,s and the gear always felt a little iffy. Unlike the Inside Passage, this one might benefit from a couple bolts. This is super short but very fun and one of the best positioned routes in the Flatirons. It is great for glory pics, none of which appear here.

Protection Suggest change

Cams to a #3.5 Camalot. Use mid to large cams for an anchor.

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