The Inside Passage
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Flying Flatiron
|Type:||Trad, 75 ft|
|FA:||Paul Glover, Christian Huber, Kirk Speers|
|Page Views:||3,799 total, 42/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Glover on May 28, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is the largest overhang in Boulder and the coolest thing I've ever done - which is saying absolutely nothing. The route climbs the 45 to 50 degree ceiling of a cave and exits through a natural arch. There is a crux right off off the ground (5.11) and another crux halfway (5.11c). There is a rest at 1/4 distance (lay on your hip on a flake), and a luxurious bivvy site at 2/3 distance atop Pigeon Prow, followed by a 5.11 R/X finish out a chossy A-frame. Route was lead in July of 2008 as a head-point, but that didn't count because I wore shoes. I finally got it right in 2010.
LocationHalf way up the south side of the Flying Flatiron is a cave which is clearly visible from the Maiden. Scramble up into the cave. This is the Devil's Arch, not to be confused with the summit arch of the Flying Flatiron. The Inside Passage climbs the flake/crack system through the ceiling.
ProtectionRack to 3.5.
A green Alien way up and right protects the first move. Weight test it to make sure it is seated properly. Place a yellow Alien sized cam in a ceiling crack just above the first piece.
At the transition from the crack to a large prow (Pigeon Prow aka the Poop Deck) blindly fiddle in a small wire behind a block with a horizontal crack on the edge of Pigeon Prow.
The A-frame protects with medium cams. Be careful on this shitty section. The crack above took a small nut and and an off-set yellow/green alien for the last piece.