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Routes in Flying Flatiron

Birth and Transmogrification TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
East Face Complete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Passage, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Less Talk, More Sauce T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Satan's Toy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Weak Sauce T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Paul Glover, Christian Huber, Kirk Speers
Page Views: 3,799 total, 42/month
Shared By: Paul Glover on May 28, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the largest overhang in Boulder and the coolest thing I've ever done - which is saying absolutely nothing. The route climbs the 45 to 50 degree ceiling of a cave and exits through a natural arch. There is a crux right off off the ground (5.11) and another crux halfway (5.11c). There is a rest at 1/4 distance (lay on your hip on a flake), and a luxurious bivvy site at 2/3 distance atop Pigeon Prow, followed by a 5.11 R/X finish out a chossy A-frame. Route was lead in July of 2008 as a head-point, but that didn't count because I wore shoes. I finally got it right in 2010.

Location

Half way up the south side of the Flying Flatiron is a cave which is clearly visible from the Maiden. Scramble up into the cave. This is the Devil's Arch, not to be confused with the summit arch of the Flying Flatiron. The Inside Passage climbs the flake/crack system through the ceiling.

Protection

Rack to 3.5.

Highlights:
A green Alien way up and right protects the first move. Weight test it to make sure it is seated properly. Place a yellow Alien sized cam in a ceiling crack just above the first piece.

At the transition from the crack to a large prow (Pigeon Prow aka the Poop Deck) blindly fiddle in a small wire behind a block with a horizontal crack on the edge of Pigeon Prow.

The A-frame protects with medium cams. Be careful on this shitty section. The crack above took a small nut and and an off-set yellow/green alien for the last piece.
jason seaver
Estes Park, CO
jason seaver   Estes Park, CO
Kudos, fellas. This thing sounds and looks badass. I gotta at least go have a look at it, even though it's way too hard. Jun 27, 2010
Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
Dang, I loved you're original description.... It was so classic! Maybe you can repost the text as a comment? Jun 18, 2010
Pinklebear
  5.13a R
Pinklebear  
  5.13a R
This route is totally bitching and totally unique - a 100-foot overhang at a consistent 45 or 50 degrees past vertical. Hats off to Paul for his vision for this wild line.

The opening crux is heads-up, though the gear is good; and the final third is wayyy heads-up, as in load up as many small and medium pieces as you can off Pigeon Prow before railing left to the lip of the A-frame.

You're never more than 15 or 20 feet off the deck at any point in this giant slot-cave, so you need to make every piece count - luckily, they're almost all bomber, if not pumpy as hell to place. Good body english and trad-resting techniques will help with recovery as you make the moves; the overall pump is savage.

Rock on! Jun 10, 2010
Fantastic description, Paul! May 30, 2010