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Routes in Flying Flatiron

Birth and Transmogrification TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
East Face Complete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Passage, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Less Talk, More Sauce T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Satan's Toy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Weak Sauce T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 930 ft, 6 pitches
FA: R. Cassady & J. Nading, 1994.
Page Views: 1,532 total, 8/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a bit of an alpinish romp. Some details here may prove useful. This description here was our attempt to follow close to the line described by Rossiter's Flatiron guide.

Approach via Mesa Trail off CO Hwy 170, West of 93. Go North on Big Bluestem, then proceed cross country. This is somewhat hard to find. Get a good bearing on it before you're off in the woods. Once you are in the trees, it becomes harder to spot the Flatiron. 3 rocks looked suggestive. Finally, it's higher.

We started about 50 feet left of the nadir of the rock.

P1. Per Rick Blair: Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out.

Alternatively: Up a ramp 220 feet to a tree on a ledge with light pro. This could be split into 2 pitches, but belay stances were less obvious.

P2. From this ledge, you can go up a bowl, loop a flake, sling a tree, up to a tree, 170 feet.

P3. Up right across a slab to a chimney/slot, 60 feet. Belay somewhat au cheval.

P4. You can go up right to the edge, but it may be better up middle of slab, 200+ feet. A #4 Camalot is useful.

P5. Go up & traverse left, up a middle rib, to a ledge on the right, 190 feet. 2 wireds + #2 Camalot were useful.

P6. Go up a rib & down, through the arch (airy) from right to left. Pull on a block (gently), go up a finger rail to the top, 80 feet.

Rap 55 feet to the North. Hike to Fatiron & then down.

Protection

Flatirons rack to #4 Camalot.

Photos

I've climbed on many a loose block in my time, but this one is dang freaky. Luckily you don't have to yard on it too hard, but you do have to use it to balance past it, or we did anyway. Float gently past! Jun 12, 2013
Rick Blair
Denver
 
Rick Blair   Denver
 
Julius had the same experience as I did. There is a small pocket halfway up the opening face that takes a red or pink tricam and is bomber, if you don't find that you only get one more piece near the top. In the Haas book, we are referring to the "East Face" route which matches the original route in Roach's book. This way appears much more exciting than the one listed above. Jul 6, 2012
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.7 R
Even by Flatiron standards, I thought the first pitch was run out enough to warrant at least an R rating. I was practically done with the pitch before getting in any pro. The hardest move is right off the deck and then it gets easier, but it has more lichen than most, and hence it is a bit unnerving to be that high without gear. The rest of the climb was mellow, although the route description wasn't very helpful after P2.... I just went up belaying at trees until I hit the final pitch, which was fun, and pretty easy. First move off the ground seemed like the hardest (I went straight up just left of the low point over the roof). Oct 14, 2011
Rick Blair
Denver
 
Rick Blair   Denver
 
The start in the description above was obvious but not the same as what Roach has in his book. Roach has the start a few feet left of the low point at a 3 foot high roof then angel up right to a big tree about 120 feet up, it goes 5.6, is steep for the Flatirons and quite run out. May 17, 2009
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
This climb is quite easy up until the last pitch or so. The last pitch is quite wild and memorable. From inside the arch, you are tempted to tug on a loose block to exit onto the ramp. It is not clear exactly what is holding this block in place, so be careful! Sep 29, 2003