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Routes in Flying Flatiron

Birth and Transmogrification TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
East Face Complete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Passage, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Less Talk, More Sauce T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Satan's Toy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Weak Sauce T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: Paul Glover
Page Views: 194 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul Glover on Nov 16, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

Make a wandering rightward scramble up through bush clogged choss below the shallow dihedral. Chimney (5.0) up right to a ledge, and keep journeying right . Ascend a flake to its end on the right side of the shallow dihedral (5.7). Now this brief and kinda clean climb begins. Undercling up and left, then punch straight up at the end of the undercling. Now do a unpleasant traverse left to the top of the dihedral and go up. Pull onto the lame slab and lower off.

Location [Edit]

There is an obvious, somewhat impressive headwall along the South Face of the Flying Flatiron at about half height. It is impossible to miss the almost stunning, shallow dihedral in the headwall when making the obnoxious haul to The Inside Passage. B&T ascends a line of weakness along the right margin of the dihedral, which dihedral I should mention is a choss dump.

Protection [Edit]

From under Satan's Toy, solo 5.nuthin R to a blobby perch. Throw in ginormous cams, and drape a 20m length of something you trust down the rough slab. This is your typical, pain-in-the-sack, Flatiron TR.

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Paul Glover  
 
TRed this in 2012 intending to headpoint it (always a douchy objective). Never did. Went back recently, rapped down it, and decided not to bother. It needs a bolt anchor where it hits the slab, so I can stop hating the entire area. The climb itself should be bolted, no debate, though one would still have to hack sideways through a thicket before touching uncrumbling stone. Might bump the route to three stars - kinda doubt it though. For those who reliably ask, it was done without footwear. Nov 16, 2015

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