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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Bob Grow, Rick Sylvester and Kelly Minnick, 1970, FFA Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson, 1983
Page Views: 2,550 total, 28/month
Shared By: Alexey on May 11, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

P1. Two variations for start. We did right variation 5.8 which has interesting face moves. Belay at the tree. 120ft. 5.8
P2. Started with broken ledges to hands/wide hands/fists crack.
belay before bolted traverse. Gear ancor 120 ft. 5.7
P3. Startes with bolted short traverse - transition to left thin crack.
Hard well protected 10a move. Than very thin crux with some fixed gear- more like face climbing 11a - and than good finger crack 10c to the rappel station (one bolt+ fixed gear) 120ft 11a
P4. Start with 5.8 crack to the ledge where you have last pro for 5.9 move. From the ledge you should find positive hold and do several committing moves above your last gear. The feather from the ledge - the easier moves are.. 120 ft, 5.9
P5,6- easy to link - hands, wide hands to the tree with slings. 200ft, 5.8.
Rappel Arches terrace route to the left. Four 2x60 m rope rappels to the ground

Note: if you going to rap the route down - it not clear to me how to do it. You can not reach rap station at the top of p3 from the top of the route. ( need to find intermediate ancor). From top of p3 you probably should rap over abyss to top 1096 ? - I do not know...

Location

Started in the end of arches area, just before big arete/corner which face east

Protection

double from Black alien to Green camelot junior.
Single #1,#2, #3,#4

Photos

Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
This climb was truly fantastic; flakes, face, splitters and even a touch of easy wide. It was also completely dry 4/23/17, when all the other routes on the wall were wet. I thought the crux took great small gear. The top of P1 felt heads-up, expect a couple moves of insecure 5.9ish slab above poor gear. I can see why Bighorn proposes that there was fresh rockfall here.

Note that the '16 guidebook topo has multiple errors, like belay bolts at the top of pitch 2, and represents pitch lengths confusingly. The mountainproject description however is quite accurate, so I've drawn a topo that correlates better with the climb as described on MP. On the topo, I broke up the pitches how I personally climbed them, belaying a little early on bolts for P1, pitching out the first 3, and linking 5&6. Hopefully it is useful for you.

We rapped Arches Terrace with a rope/pull-cord combo, so we preferred to do more, shorter raps instead of long pulls where we might get our rope stuck. The rap stations could all use some refreshed cord/webbing/rings - Even the [shiny, modern] bolt stations lack established chains. Apr 26, 2017
Did the climb today. Amazing.

Seems like some fresh rockfall has changed the top of the right start pitch... Oct 20, 2016
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
Mar 28, 2016
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
I also split the first 3 into 2 pitches - same as Ryan above. Worked great! Really good route with a full-value crux pitch and deserves more traffic! We raped after the crux pitch due to ballistic wind and while it sort of worked I can't say that I would recommend doing that. Basically, 1st person has to go down the crack and place a few pieces in the middle of the pitch, then drop over the abyss and hold on to the rope ends when at the anchor. The 2nd goes down, cleans the gear and goes back UP just past the bush. From there it should be straight shot down into the void and the 1st person can real the 2nd in. If you try to rap the route - the knot will for sure get eaten by the crack just above the bush. We sort of tried that. The anchor that you get to is NOT the one for 10.96. It's actually a little higher and further right on a big boulder. That anchor is super sketchy with three 1/4 inchers on a boulder that is just sitting there on top of a stack of other boulders. Mar 28, 2016
Ryan K.  
Bring extra #3 and #4 camalots if you want to sew up the last easy pitch. Did first three pitches in two. End pitch one at a good ledge after pleasant tromp through manzanita bush. Anchor there takes .3-.5 and #1 camalots. Jan 31, 2015
Rob Dillon  
 
What Bud said. If CMac reads this it'll be mobbed after the next guidebook comes out. Nov 5, 2013
bud miller
SAR site, Camp4
bud miller   SAR site, Camp4
awesome. Should be more popular. Don't understand how some climbs just get wrote off. Nov 1, 2013
The FFA of this climb was done by Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson.
1983. Jul 24, 2010