Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
FA: Bob Grow, Rick Sylvester and Kelly Minnick, 1970, FFA Dimitri Barton and Dave Neilson, 1983
Page Views: 3,733 total · 30/month
Shared By: Alexey Zelditch on May 11, 2010 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1. Two variations for start. We did right variation 5.9 which has interesting face moves. Belay at the tree. 120ft. 5.9
P2. Started with broken ledges to hands/wide hands/fists crack.
belay before bolted traverse. Gear anchor at p3 protection bolt, easy to link p1 + p2,, 120 ft. 5.7
P3. Starts with short bolted traverse - transition to left thin crack.
Hard well protected 10a move to a very thin crux with some fixed gear- more like face climbing 11a. Then a good finger crack 10c to a single belay bolt with good gear in the crack 120ft 11a
P4. Start with 5.8 crack to the ledge where you have last pro for 5.9 move. From the ledge you should find positive hold and do several committing moves above your last gear. Falling here might have consequences but the farther from the ledge - the easier moves are. Easy climbing through ledges to the base of the vertical crack, more than 180 ft, 5.9R
P5,6- easy to link - hands, wide hands to the tree with slings. 200ft, 5.8.

Note: The 2016 Sloan topo for this route is very inaccurate and is missing a belay between its 2nd and 3rd labeled stations (single bolt belay station at the top of p3 in the above description). Without this belay this would be a >80m pitch.

Descent: Rappel Arches terrace route to the left with two 60m ropes. This is probably the best option as these rappels are relatively straightforward and safe.  Four 2x60 m rope rappels to the ground: 1) from a tree to the left of the topout, 2) small tree on a ledge, 3) big tree visible from the top, 4) bolted anchor on face (small chance you have to use the intermediate with 60m ropes). 2x70m ropes allowed us to go straight from the top to the big tree with a small amount of downclimbing; there's a good intermediate bolted anchor between 3 and 4 that might allow rappelling with a single 70. As of 9/19 the tat on the big tree was baked and bringing a large (6 ft) length of rope or cord to replace it would be wise.

Note: it might be possible to rappel the route or to the right of the route to the top of 1096 but the on-route stations were not equipped for this and comments below don't encourage this approach. 

Location

Started in the end of arches area, just before big arete/corner which face east

Protection

double from Black alien to Green camelot junior.
Single #1,#2, #3,#4

Photos