Type: Trad, Aid, 1400 ft (424 m), 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: Bill Russell and Chris Friel (Nov, 1983)
Page Views: 377 total · 25/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Nov 6, 2019
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

This is a pretty good climb that unfortunately has a lot of grass and bushes growing out of some of the cracks. If it gets more traffic it will become a lot better. Don't try to climb it in the spring or you'll have to deal with a lot of runoff and slime as well. Late fall is the best time. Also this thing cooks in the sun, so bring plenty of water.

The route goes mostly free at 13a A0, but some of the 5.10 pitches would be a nightmare to try freeing without first doing some serious gardening. Some of the 5.11 and 5.12 pitches look pretty bold, with small tricky pro placed from bad stances.

Erik's Bigwalls guidebook has a solid topo for the route, but here's a quick pitch breakdown.

Pitch 1: Short bolt ladder, move right, then up a shallow corner that's really dirty. With a coupe camhook moves you can avoid nailing. C2+
Pitch 2: Mostly a bolt ladder up the slab with a couple little cruxes. I think i might have hammered once on this pitch. A2-
Pitch 3: Pulled on gear somewhere near the start then free climbed the rest of the pitch. Mostly 5.6 and under.
Pitch 4: Free climb up and left, then after a bolt move back right. Some aid on dirty rock, and then at the top of the pitch it looked easier to free than try aiding. Seemed maybe 5.8 or so, with big fall potential if you fuck up. I thought this was the mandatory free crux of the climb. C2
Pitch 5: Walk left along Angel Ledge past 1 bolt and then climb up blocky terrain, mixed aid and free. C1+
Pitch 6: Climb a short steep crack, watch out for the detached block on corner of the shelf, then at the right side of the shelf get on an old rivet and aid the short chossy seam. Easy for "A3", only nailed once actually, and it'd go clean with a hand placed beak. A2, but don't fall.
Pitch 7: Steep C1 to beaks, to a cool hook move (the only hook i placed on the route), and finally a few bolts take you around the arete to the anchor. Awesome pitch. A2
Pitch 8: Really dirty seam leads into a big corner under the roof, then work left on fixed gear and out the roof. The beginning of the pitch sucks but the rest is spectacular. A1+
Pitch 9: Dirty and sort of chossy low angle crack and groove. Kind of miserable. C2
Pitch 10: Big awesome corner. If you free mid/hard 5.11 this will be super fun! C1

So above you is a big roof with two ways around it. An offwidth takes you out right to an A3 seam, and i guess this is the "standard" finish. I wasn't sure how to get to the start of the wide crack, it looked like some mandatory free slab climbing or something that I wasn't up for.

The alternative is a thin arching flake straight up from the anchor which gains a ledge with a tree to the left of the roof. Begin on the thin splitter to the right of the flake and then penjji over to it after about 20ft. This is an excellent pitch and it went clean up until the bolt at the top of the flake, then I had to nail a couple arrows traversing left under the roof. The final pitch is a C1 corner crack or fun and burly 5.10.

Location

Located on the far right side of the Royal Arches wall. Climbs in and around the large left-facing corner before exiting through roofs.

Protection

Cams from the smallest micros to 4.5", triples in the 0.3-3" sizes, including offsets in the smaller sizes.
Offset nuts, all sizes.
5 large beaks, and maybe one medium.
A few LA's and a knifeblade.
One medium hook.
One regular camhook.

The #5 C4 might not be necessary on the route if you do the left finish. I definitely placed it, but I think I could have gotten by with just a #4 placed a little tipped out?

Photos