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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rich Calderwood and Merle Alley, 1957, FFA: Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, John Ohrenschall and George Sessions, 1958
Page Views: 2,208 total, 20/month
Shared By: Sheets on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The climb begins on a left facing grassy open book which doesn't look too fun. One can climb this at 5.8 or take one of the bolted routes nearby up to the first pitch's belay bolts.

From here the climb becomes more enjoyable. Four bolts protect a somewhat runout face traverse (5.7-8). The climbing here is wild and fun with the runout no longer than 40 feet at most. One traverses to a corner where easy climbing takes you to a new set of belay bolts.

From this belay runout face moves (5.6) takes one to a weird and flaring wide groove. Dirty pin scars provide protection for the awkward yet fun climbing up to a big tree.

From here many people rappel but the climb continues up obvious cracks and ledges for another two pitches. At the top one can rappel the Arches Terrace Direct route.

This basically a fun old school Valley route.

Location

To find the climb go past the chimney start of Royal Arches until you find a mungy looking left open book on an 800 ft blank slabby wall. This is the start of Arches Terrace.

Protection

Standard Valley rack. Aliens are good for the pin scars. The route was recently rebolted so rapelling it is easy.

Photos

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FA: Rich Calderwood, Merle Alley, 12/1957
FFA: Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, John Ohrenschall, George Sessions, 1958 Mar 7, 2012
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Good climb, definitely continue to the topout. Neat spot up there.

Second pitch traverse is probably a bit more sketchy for the second than the leader, particularly in moving from the last bolt into the ramp system - the climbing is moderate for sure, but you probably don't want to take a beginner and have them follow you on this pitch. Jan 20, 2012
This is definitely very "old school," as it offers difficult and runout climbing almost continuously. I found the shallow, flared groove to be the most difficult pitch, but a combination of heel and to jams seemed to work well. My climb was on June 25, 1965. This was a "de riguer" climb for up-and-coming hard men BITD. I climbed in stiff-as-boards Kletter Spiders. Apr 16, 2011
S. O.
logan,ut
S. O.   logan,ut
Three stars for the first two pitches and only one star for the very dirty third pitch. Aug 27, 2010
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
my lady and i climb the first pitch justthe other day. what a first great pitch! May 8, 2010