Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches
FA: Rich Calderwood and Merle Alley, 1957, FFA: Merle Alley, Rich Calderwood, John Ohrenschall and George Sessions, 1958
Page Views: 2,940 total · 20/month
Shared By: Steven Sheets on Nov 17, 2008
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

The climb begins on a left facing grassy open book which doesn't look too fun. One can climb this at 5.8 or take one of the bolted routes nearby up to the first pitch's belay bolts.

From here the climb becomes more enjoyable. Four bolts protect a somewhat runout face traverse (5.7-8). The climbing here is wild and fun with the runout no longer than 40 feet at most. One traverses to a corner where easy climbing takes you to a new set of belay bolts.

From this belay runout face moves (5.6) takes one to a weird and flaring wide groove. Dirty pin scars provide protection for the awkward yet fun climbing up to a big tree.

From here many people rappel but the climb continues up obvious cracks and ledges for another two pitches. At the top one can rappel the Arches Terrace Direct route.

This basically a fun old school Valley route.

Location

To find the climb go past the chimney start of Royal Arches until you find a mungy looking left open book on an 800 ft blank slabby wall. This is the start of Arches Terrace.

Protection

Standard Valley rack. Aliens are good for the pin scars. The route was recently rebolted so rapelling it is easy.

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