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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Adrenaline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviltry T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hang Dog Flyer T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Snake T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Permanent Waves T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Shining, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Bridwell, John Long, Mark Klemens, 1972
Page Views: 10,110 total · 73/month
Shared By: Russ Walling on Jul 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Industry standard for 5.10+ wiggling. It's a chimney, it's a flare, it's a fist crack, it's a lieback..... it's a classic! Perfect rock and good pro in the back of the crack. Shady in the afternoons.

The FA team were masters at their craft, so if you are just breaking into the wide and horrible world of 5.10 OW, do a RedBull or something before heading up this one.

click here for a short video clip of the YSL on 1096:
fishproducts.com/movies/109…

Location

Arches Terrace area. This climb points East in a small alcove directly left of a large slabby inset. The route Hangdog Flyer is directly above 1096 and uses the same anchor. 1096 is to the right of Arches Terrace and Greasy But Groovy. Can't miss it if you walk along the base.

Protection

Bring a few small cams for the start, then the business section takes cams around 4". You might need 3 or 4 of these. There might be a fixed pin and fixed #10 hex in the thing.... or there was on 7/07.
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Fantastic. One of the best. Aesthetic, rarely done, and reasonable for the rating. Jul 14, 2007
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.10d
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.10d
Need beta : which "side in" is easier to climb this flare? From the movie of YSL - seems that he is climbing harder way with his left side in. Is right side in is easier? Dec 21, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10d
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10d
I've always done it left side in after seeing the picture of Phil Gleason ripping out of the thing right side in....

Alexey, you can always ask over here, widefetish.com too. Lot's of wide guys lurking around there. Dec 21, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
I went left side in, but it probably doesn't matter much. In the bottom 2/3 the flare is very secure, knee foot style with a fist in the back. At the 2/3 point, the outside wall of the flare gets shorter, effectively making the flare less deep. This is the crux since you can't get solid knee-foot action anymore. You could keep thrutching left or right side in with a fist in the back, or turn straight on and fist jam it with both hands. Eventually, you will be pulling into a lieback, and that is definitely going to be easier if you are left side in or straight on. Dec 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
My first experience "smelling" ants was at the base of this route. Yuck! Jan 9, 2008
Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.10d
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.10d
gear : single from blue alien to red camelot.
dowble #2, #3 ,#4 C4 camelots.
#4 friends or old 3.5 cam worked too. Blue camelot open too wide in the flare.
I want to add that layback looks committing from flare and it about 12 feet no pro, but you do hardest moves right at your last #4 cam at your feet level - and than layback become way easier and easier as you progress up.
The start of the route is scary - you do insecure face traverse- easy to slip- and you 15 feet up with bad landing until you get first pro - blue alien. I did sling the tree - made traverse put gear- traversed back to tree- remove sling and started climbing. May 11, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
#3.5 Camalots are the money for this pitch. The #4's are overcammed in a lot of spots but will still work if that's all you got.

Tip for belaying the second:
There's a short traverse left at the top to get onto the ledge with the belay. I couldn't find a good place to get a high directional, and if the second falls here they'll swing a bit. What's worse is that the rope will land directly in a sharp "V" slot formed by the large flake intersecting the wall. The only solution I could come up with was to take my shirt off and stuff it into the slot to at least protect the rope after my partner removed the last directional. Feb 1, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
For the life of me I cannot remember the name of the route directly left in the photo. It's really hard, like .12-something. In some of the pics you can see the diving board feature above it. In 1983 I hung off that diving board and shot pics of Hidetaka Suzuki working the route, with my dear friend Dave Rose belaying. Suzuki was such a gentleman that he would say to Dave, in very broken English, "No, too hard, fall now" and then he would wait patiently for Dave to brace himself and then he would fall. He got it eventually. On another day we went off to do (him) and shoot (me), Separate Reality and Tales of Power. Lots of air beneath those last two, BTW. As I recall, Suzuki cruised them both. Sep 3, 2015
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10d
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10d
Peter: The route above and left is HangDog Flyer Sep 3, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
Yes!!!! I remembered it as soon as I read it. I wonder if people do stuff like that anymore (the route, not the losing my mind part)? Sep 29, 2015
What an incredible route! I'm not sure which start is the correct one. I looked at the traverse in from the tree on the right on the poor quality darker rock. I ended up starting down and left, and worked up a hand traverse, up and right. It was scarcely protected, but really fun! What's the standard start? Also, unless I missed an anchor, the slung blocks anchor makes it really awkward to clean the route yourself if you don't have someone following. Oct 2, 2016

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