Avg: 3.6 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||Bruce Morris, Dave Yerian and Dave Sessions May 10, 1987|
|Page Views:||6,309 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Bryan G on Nov 3, 2012 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Pitch 1: Begin a short ways left of the start of the Arches Terrace Regular Route. A slab boulder problem gains a left facing flake. Climb this and place a couple cams from 1" to 1.5". Then step right onto the face and go up to the first bolt. Follow the line of bolts straight up to an anchor. There is a big runout before the last bolt, but the rock is lower angle and there are some good edges and features which keep it reasonable. 6 Bolts.
Pitch 2: Traverse left from the anchor to a bolt that's way out left and sort of low. I actually missed this one and ended up angling straight up to the second bolt on the pitch, which is a reasonable runout and will actually reduce your ropedrag greatly on the rest of the pitch. Climb over a small bulge and continue up through some really blank rock that fortunately has good friction. This leads up to another bolted anchor. 7 Bolts.
Pitch 3: Climb left into the white water-polished rock. Good edges but bad friction lead up past a couple bolts to a left-facing corner. You can place a small piece here (.25"). Step right onto the arete and follow it up until you can move further right. More friction climbing continues up to the anchor. 7 Bolts.
Pitch 4: Climb straight up to the first bolt and then move left to reach a vertical dike. This leads to a second bolt. Continue along another dike out right and then cut back left. The angle at this point drops off and you make a big runout to the top of the pitch. The bolted anchor you are looking for is located in white rock just below an obvious left-facing corner.
At this point it is possible to continue climbing for three more pitches on Friday the 13th (5.10b R) which will lead to a tree covered terrace just below the steep headwalls. Otherwise just rappel the route with two 50m ropes to descend. All of the belays are equipped with rap rings.