Fear and Loathing
Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Richard Harrison, Nick Nordblom. 1982|
|Page Views:||4,279 total · 45/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Apr 16, 2010|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionPitch #1: Begin at the left side of a "tunnel" at the base of the wall. Climb up to a good ledge at the bottom of the main crack system. 5.7, 75ft.
Pitch #2: Climb the steep varnished crack. Mid way up you encounter a roof that is, obviously, turned on the right. Continue up to a nice trianglar ledge and belay. The belay takes acouple of small pieces where the wall meets the ledge and or #1 camalots. 5.10+, 110ft.
Pitch #3: Continue climbing the sick varnished crack. Starting out #1 camalot size and the progressing through the sizes to a #4. Belay near the top of the formation. 5.9+/5.10-, 215ft.
LocationThe route is located on the obvious varnished wall at the top of the Gemstone Gully.
After gaining the notch between the Approach gully and the Gemstone gully, drop down and then go up the middle of the Gemstone gully. When you reach a cliff/ impasse go up and left. Leave your pack here. Go up the chimney on the left. Continue going up left until you can traverse out(right) onto the terrace directly below the varnished wall. Scramble up to the base and pass through a short "tunnel". The climb begins from the left side of the tunnel.
To descend, go down to the left of the wall. Either drop down into the stick gully(which I did not do) or head back east aiming for a large pinon pine. Do a short rappel off the tree(currently no slings) into the chimney to the east. Scramble north down the chimney to a rappel off a large scrub oak. After this rappel scranble down onto a large ledge. On the east side of the ledge rappel from a large block aiming for another large Pinon Pine. From this pine it's possible to scramble back onto the terrace at the base of the wall. Towards the center/bottom of this terrace is a good bolted rappel anchor. 1X 70M rope puts you back at your pack. Then descend the Gemstone gully.