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Routes in Gemstone Gully

Blue Feathers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fear and Loathing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Gemstone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tri-Burro Bridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - 1982
Page Views: 375 total · 16/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 6, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Gemstone is the "other" climb high up in Gemstone Gully. I do not recommend this route as a destination in and of itself, but if you make the hike up there to do Fear and Loathing (perhaps the best 5.10+/5.11- crack in Nevada), Gemstone is a worthy way to finish your day. At the very least it'll help you appreciate how good Fear and Loathing is.

Begin on a boulder beneath a beautiful southeast-facing panel of varnished rock (the route is clearly visible from the Pine Creek TH) and climb the left-arching hand crack to an anchor. Continue up choss, or rappel: The route actually has two pitches, but we had no interest in climbing the second pitch (you'll see why) so I cannot comment on it.

Note: There are strange layers of exfoliating patina on the inside of the crack that make for unnerving gear placements - exercise judgement when protecting this pitch.

Protection

Contrary to info in the guidebook and on the Fear and Loathing route page, an appropriate rack for this route is as follows:

1-2x 0.5 Camalots
2-3x 0.75 Camalots
3-4x #1 Camalots
3-4x #2 Camalots
1-2x #3 Camalots

Don't bring wires or any cams smaller than a 0.5 Camalot - you won't find places for them. A 70m rope makes getting down fairly easy; a 60m rope might work with some rope tricks... watch your ends.

Photos

Josh Janes

  5.10-
Josh Janes    
  5.10-
The pitch 1 anchors on this route were replaced courtesy of the ASCA in 2016. If you use and appreciate updated anchors in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org. Dec 6, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
we also didn't do the 2nd pitch. worth it if in the area, as you'll likely have time after f & l Dec 14, 2016
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.10
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.10
Pitch 2 is a bit heads up (with great climbing) but the gear seemed good enough and the falls would have been safe. After pulling around to the right it eases up. Belay at 210' at a tree. One more pitch of low 5th class up to a ledge and scurry right and down to belay only slightly above Eye level with your partner. Great approach to F&L. Nov 27, 2017

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