| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.13237, -115.4888 |
| FA: | Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - 1982 |
| Page Views: | 1,403 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 6, 2016 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Gemstone is the "other" climb high up in Gemstone Gully. I do not recommend this route as a destination in and of itself, but if you make the hike up there to do Fear and Loathing (perhaps the best 5.10+/5.11- crack in southern Nevada), Gemstone is a worthy way to finish your day. At the very least it'll help you appreciate how good Fear and Loathing is.
Begin on a boulder beneath a beautiful southeast-facing panel of varnished rock (the route is clearly visible from the Pine Creek TH) and climb the left-arching hand crack to an anchor. Continue up choss, or rappel: The route actually has two pitches, but we had no interest in climbing the second pitch (you'll see why) so I cannot comment on it.
Note: There are strange layers of exfoliating patina on the inside of the crack that make for unnerving gear placements - exercise judgement when protecting this pitch.
Protection
Contrary to info in the guidebook and on the Fear and Loathing route page, an appropriate rack for this route is as follows:
1-2x 0.5 Camalots
2-3x 0.75 Camalots
3-4x #1 Camalots
3-4x #2 Camalots
1-2x #3 Camalots
Don't bring wires or any cams smaller than a 0.5 Camalot - you won't find places for them. A 70m rope makes getting down fairly easy; a 60m rope might work with some rope tricks... watch your ends.



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