Type: Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches
FA: Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - 1982
Page Views: 758 total · 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 6, 2016
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Gemstone is the "other" climb high up in Gemstone Gully. I do not recommend this route as a destination in and of itself, but if you make the hike up there to do Fear and Loathing (perhaps the best 5.10+/5.11- crack in Nevada), Gemstone is a worthy way to finish your day. At the very least it'll help you appreciate how good Fear and Loathing is.

Begin on a boulder beneath a beautiful southeast-facing panel of varnished rock (the route is clearly visible from the Pine Creek TH) and climb the left-arching hand crack to an anchor. Continue up choss, or rappel: The route actually has two pitches, but we had no interest in climbing the second pitch (you'll see why) so I cannot comment on it.

Note: There are strange layers of exfoliating patina on the inside of the crack that make for unnerving gear placements - exercise judgement when protecting this pitch.

Protection

Contrary to info in the guidebook and on the Fear and Loathing route page, an appropriate rack for this route is as follows:

1-2x 0.5 Camalots
2-3x 0.75 Camalots
3-4x #1 Camalots
3-4x #2 Camalots
1-2x #3 Camalots

Don't bring wires or any cams smaller than a 0.5 Camalot - you won't find places for them. A 70m rope makes getting down fairly easy; a 60m rope might work with some rope tricks... watch your ends.

Photos