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Routes in Gemstone Gully
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Blue Feathers T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fear and Loathing T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gemstone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tri-Burro Bridge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - 1982 |
| Page Views: | 758 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 6, 2016 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Gemstone is the "other" climb high up in Gemstone Gully. I do not recommend this route as a destination in and of itself, but if you make the hike up there to do Fear and Loathing (perhaps the best 5.10+/5.11- crack in Nevada), Gemstone is a worthy way to finish your day. At the very least it'll help you appreciate how good Fear and Loathing is.
Begin on a boulder beneath a beautiful southeast-facing panel of varnished rock (the route is clearly visible from the Pine Creek TH) and climb the left-arching hand crack to an anchor. Continue up choss, or rappel: The route actually has two pitches, but we had no interest in climbing the second pitch (you'll see why) so I cannot comment on it.
Note: There are strange layers of exfoliating patina on the inside of the crack that make for unnerving gear placements - exercise judgement when protecting this pitch.
Begin on a boulder beneath a beautiful southeast-facing panel of varnished rock (the route is clearly visible from the Pine Creek TH) and climb the left-arching hand crack to an anchor. Continue up choss, or rappel: The route actually has two pitches, but we had no interest in climbing the second pitch (you'll see why) so I cannot comment on it.
Note: There are strange layers of exfoliating patina on the inside of the crack that make for unnerving gear placements - exercise judgement when protecting this pitch.
Protection
Contrary to info in the guidebook and on the Fear and Loathing route page, an appropriate rack for this route is as follows:
1-2x 0.5 Camalots
2-3x 0.75 Camalots
3-4x #1 Camalots
3-4x #2 Camalots
1-2x #3 Camalots
Don't bring wires or any cams smaller than a 0.5 Camalot - you won't find places for them. A 70m rope makes getting down fairly easy; a 60m rope might work with some rope tricks... watch your ends.
1-2x 0.5 Camalots
2-3x 0.75 Camalots
3-4x #1 Camalots
3-4x #2 Camalots
1-2x #3 Camalots
Don't bring wires or any cams smaller than a 0.5 Camalot - you won't find places for them. A 70m rope makes getting down fairly easy; a 60m rope might work with some rope tricks... watch your ends.
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