Type: Trad, 530 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Swain, Burkey, Downing Feb. 1999
Page Views: 772 total · 10/month
Shared By: Ken Klis on Jan 6, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

5 pitches with each one getting harder (excluding the 3rd class pitch), 5th pitch is sustained and steep corner jams and stems. All belays fixed except first, some stations could use improvement.

1) After crossing chasm, climb slot (5.6) on right side of hueco covered wall with large block on its top, belay to the right 20 feet on flat rock. 130'

2) Crawl through brush and up and left to wall, 4th class chimney to perch. 100'

3) Straight up short crack which forces you left under overhang to a 5.8+ left corner with a thin discontinuous crack. 80'

4) More 5.8 corner that ends with an option to climb down and behind to a finger crack with pro or up a face runout to belay ledge below steep headwall with obvious crack. 90'

5) After a short bolted 5.10a face entry you stem the steep 5.10c corner with jams to the stance belay on the left wall. 130'

Descend via rappel with 2 ropes using each fixed belay station except the first (use the bolts above the hueco face for final rap)

Location

Take the ramp right of Gemstone Gully a short way way up and right to the hueco-covered wall and climb its right side.

Protection

Many stoppers including brass, Aliens and hand-sized cams. Only a few wide pieces used.

Photos