Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 530 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Swain, Burkey, Downing Feb. 1999|
|Page Views:||671 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||Ken Klis on Jan 6, 2013|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Description5 pitches with each one getting harder (excluding the 3rd class pitch), 5th pitch is sustained and steep corner jams and stems. All belays fixed except first, some stations could use improvement.
1) After crossing chasm, climb slot (5.6) on right side of hueco covered wall with large block on its top, belay to the right 20 feet on flat rock. 130'
2) Crawl through brush and up and left to wall, 4th class chimney to perch. 100'
3) Straight up short crack which forces you left under overhang to a 5.8+ left corner with a thin discontinuous crack. 80'
4) More 5.8 corner that ends with an option to climb down and behind to a finger crack with pro or up a face runout to belay ledge below steep headwall with obvious crack. 90'
5) After a short bolted 5.10a face entry you stem the steep 5.10c corner with jams to the stance belay on the left wall. 130'
Descend via rappel with 2 ropes using each fixed belay station except the first (use the bolts above the hueco face for final rap)