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Routes in Cat's Ass Wall

Cat's Ass, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cat's Night S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eye of the Cougar T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
It's only Interment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off Night S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Travis Peckham 2005
Page Views: 910 total, 10/month
Shared By: Colin R on Apr 14, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Technical face climbing on thin crimps and tiny pockets leads to an undercling break before reaching the chains. Initial boulder problem is about V5 then leads to an awkward stance, hard clip and another V4 boulder problem to the large undercling. From there it's only about 5.10+ to the anchor. VERY thin and cruxy. The grade on this route has been debated. Officially the grade is 12a but repeat ascentionists have suggested it is somewhat harder (likely 12b or so). I've given it the grade of 12a/b in light of this.

Protection

bolts

Location

Far right side of the Cat's Ass Wall

Photos

Colin R
Ottawa, ON
 
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
 
Another low-traffic high-tech route. Don't be shy on those crimps, you gotta grit and bear it! It feels much better when you finish it - somehow it makes the crimps seem less painful and more enjoyable in retrospect.... Oct 23, 2010