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Routes in Cat's Ass Wall

Cat's Ass, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cat's Night S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Eye of the Cougar T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
It's only Interment T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Off Night S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Pussy Galore S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: Colin Rickert 2009
Page Views: 1,804 total · 17/month
Shared By: Colin R on Apr 14, 2010
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route

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Super tech bouldery route above the start of "It's Only Interment" (i.e. direct finish on thin seam). The route features two cruxes which come back to back with a sketchy clip thrown in between. First crux is an extension move off a side pull while the second crux is a full body lock-off/press-down off a miserable gaston to an incut hold way above with pasted feet (the full sequence is about V6-ish). Finish with a few feet of 5.10/V1 climbing using some gear for pro in the crack (New two bolt anchor as of 5/16 thanks to Greg Kuchyt). Good luck...


Far left hand side of Cat's Ass Wall


Use small wire and cam in crack near the top. May wish to place gear below first bolt too. I climbed up to clip first bolt then down climb and start over (clipping first bolt messes up sequence). FA was pinkpointed. This route could be bouldered if one were bold enough and had enough pads though a large rock at the bottom would need to be moved or broken into smaller pieces somehow as its a real danger (crux is at about 16 feet)


Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
I've upped the rating to solid 12c (no more b/c). I've talked to locals and I haven't heard of a repeat despite attempts by several climbers. The complete crux sequence (i.e. from above the crack to the the horizontal break) is probably solid V6. Having just redpointed "Get it On" at Rumney (12c/d) I would offer that 'Eye of the Cougar' is actually somewhat harder. I hope someone repeats this and offers their own opinion... Nov 25, 2010
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
My friend Josh Potter from Albany repeated this route a couple weeks ago at the end of the day. Josh is a pretty strong boulderer and offered a bouldering grade of V6 which is pretty much what I thought. We both feel it is harder than The Doggfather or Beyond (both rated 12b, both of which Josh dispatched in 2 tries). Aug 25, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
The hardware on this route was replaced with glue-ins and there is now a proper two-bolt anchor. There is a 2-foot hollow flake in the final overlap that should be treated with caution. May 19, 2016
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Thanks Greg! Nice work you are doing... Jun 15, 2016

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