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Routes in (6) Shield Wall

Back in the Saddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chainmail S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Plains Drifter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Little Rauch That Could S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
MD Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meat Grinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rauch Factor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Short Straw T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Mark D
Page Views: 1,889 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ian G. on Mar 20, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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23 Opinions

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Description

This route is fairly short, with some easy moves right up to the crux. Grab a left hand pinch, fingerlock and handjam. Make a bizarre mantle move and yer pretty much done. This is a good climb to push your limit on, as the fall from the crux is super clean.

Location

This route is sandwiched between Chain Mail and Rauch Factor. Easily distinguishable by the heavily chalked crack.

Protection

Fully bolted. You may want a cam (0.5 camalot) after doing to the crux.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
 
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
 
Difficult for the grade IMO, especially considering the crag. It's harder than both the "12a" routes at Ozone. Great fun and a burly crux move. Sep 9, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.11d
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.11d
I agree with Micah, If the route is being graded based on the crux alone it should definitely be a 12, if its being averaged out with the easy climbing before and after than its an 11d.
Furthermore, the fall is only clean if you have a really attentive belay, an extra foot of unnecessary slack and your gonna bang the shit our of your knee or shin on the mini roof like I did. Jan 30, 2017
Eddie Ferrer
Portland, OR
  5.11d
Eddie Ferrer   Portland, OR
  5.11d
I think the route is easy for the grade if you stay out of the crack at the crux and stay on the crimps to the right. Maybe the only way if you're shorter Feb 11, 2018

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