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Routes in (6) Shield Wall

Back in the Saddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chainmail S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Plains Drifter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
MD Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rauch Factor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Short Straw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 90 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 5-12-07 Jon Stewart, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 193 total · 6/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 13, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This route is best done in 2 pitches to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 1: Start up Rauch Factor clipping 3 bolts and then turn the corner, a small wire might inspire confidence here. Traverse up past the first set of anchors and on to the anchors for Chain Mail.

Pitch 2: Continue up from the anchors into a dirty crack system, trend right to a crack with a piton and then past a small roof. The piton looks ok but a few feet higher the thin crack opens up and takes a small nut well. Traverse over right and eventually end at the Rauch Factor anchors.

Note that as of April 2015 the upper pitch is very dirty and needs much cleaning. If climbing this route please take that into account.

Location

Shared start with Rauch Factor and also shares top anchors with Rauch Factor.

Rappel

Protection

Gear to 1" including a couple smaller cams in the Camalot 0.2 to 0.4 range.

Photos

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Jonathan Stewart
  5.10a/b
Jonathan Stewart  
  5.10a/b
Added bolts 7-12-15 to the crux of back in the saddle. Probably still need to add one more to protect runout to anchor, currently traverse to RF route at top. Still dirty but manageable. Origionally did ground up aid, pulled rope, then free climbed back in 07, so i guess I'm still putting it together 8 years later. If clean would most likely not be a bomb. This route has great potential as a moderate way to reach RauchFactor anchor or as extension to chainmail. I also question the 5.9 rating as it felt 5.10- yesterday. Jul 13, 2015

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