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Routes in (6) Shield Wall

Back in the Saddle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chainmail S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Plains Drifter S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
MD Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Meat Grinder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rauch Factor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Short Straw T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 04.11.2006, Jon Stewart, Jim Opdycke
Page Views: 379 total · 11/month
Shared By: Topher Dabrowski on Apr 9, 2015
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

This route ascends the corner just left of High Plains Drifter. Climb up to the "razorblade flake" and place gear in the flaring crack. Continue on to the next ledge system and climb easier but run out terrain to a good placement about 20-30' higher. Stay in the right facing corner system and jam through a crack (crux). Exit the crack to High Plains Drifter's anchors or continue directly to the top of the cliff as per the original line.

This is another Ozone classic that should be climbed more than it is. A super fun and very well protected route.

Location

In between Short Straw and High Plains Drifter

Protection

Set of nuts
0.3-3.0 BD Camalots
Double 0.5 & 0.75 sizes

Photos

Jonathan Stewart
  5.10a/b
Jonathan Stewart  
  5.10a/b
R rating if you don't clip any bolts as I did on the FA. However you can clip the first bolt on High Plains Drifter. Gear is fine if you know how to use it, which I'm always still learning. May 19, 2015
Another guide described this as "Meat Grinder 5.10d R - Very hard, sustained and steep with poor gear. Use the steep corner system left of High Plains Drifter."

I can see the R rating for the run out section but it's easy climbing given you are jumping on a mid 10 route. I found gear to be very reasonable especially larger nuts and the crux can be protected well; I did not clip any bolts and did not feel it was R rated. Apr 13, 2015

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