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Routes in The New River Wall

Ali Natural S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Aqua Huck V5 6C
Aquabats V6 7A
Arete V1-2 5
Beta Test S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bitch Strength V6-7 7A+
Crucifixtion S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dark Waters V12-13 8B
Dark Waters Stand V9 7C
Dark Waters Traverse V10 7C+
Deep Sea Angler V7-8 7B
Dragonslayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Enjoy Your Youth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Execution S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Flash Flood V6- 7A
Fluid Mechanic V9 7C
Formula 50 V11 8A
Formula 500 V12 8A+
Fountain of Youth S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Good Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Green Herbs'n Sam V7 7A+
High Waters V5-6 6C+
Infinity V1 5
Kinky Reggae S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Kinky Reggae DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Know Your Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
La Mega Positive S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Love Your Enemies T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Love Your Inclinations T,S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Master Beta S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Merlin S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mobbin' Around V10-11 8A
No More Crucifixions S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
No More Enemies S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Enemies DS S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
No More Inclinations S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Positive Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Public Crucifixion S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Enemy T,S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Public Enemy DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Execution S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations T,S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Inclinations DS S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Public Youth S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Red Makes Me Angry! V6-7 7A+
Sonic Vibrations S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Sonic Youth S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Swamp Traverse V9 7C
Sweet Inclinations S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sweet Inspirations S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Than's Problem? V8 7B
Unknown at New River S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wet Carrot (aka Under Your Clings) V6-7 7A+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: ??????
Page Views: 832 total, 9/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start with both hands on a big, flat jug located on the far right side of the bouldering cave. From here, heel hook your right foot on to the large, flat, starting hold. Then, cross over your head with your right hand to a long flat edge. Fire out left to gain a positive but sloping jug. Adjust your feet. Match hands and then toss left again to a super flat, in-cut jug that leads to the final right/left hand moves to jugs located in the middle of the cave and then step down.

This was one of the main warm-ups for "Sonic Youth" before the advent of the more modern bouldering lines that have since been developed.

For increasing fun and as another potential warm-up at this wall, repeat the beta as stated before only use the smaller crimps found just above the jug system. This would be more like (V3/V4) I think? Still, it's lots of fun!!

Great moves and a nice warm-up. Steep climbing on big moves and holds!!! A must do.

Location

The start in located on the right end of "The New River Wall's" bouldering cave on a big, flat jug.

Protection

Pads and maybe a spot. Quite safe on your own. Take care when the river is frozen!!

Photos

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I am not sure of the true name of the line, but Infinity sounds good to me, Andrew. I just know the line as the old "Sonic Youth" warm-up and just thought I would post the info. So, I had to make up a name to post.... So, thanks for the input and V0 may be right? Depends on the beta and the time of year it's climbed I would think?? However, fun problem and a good warm-up. Thanks for the comments. Feb 17, 2010
Luke, if this is the warm up on the far right side, I was always told it was called Infinity, and have been told it is a V0.

Terrific warm up, thanks for the addition. Feb 12, 2010