Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: ??????
Page Views: 954 total · 9/month
Shared By: Luke Childers on Jan 21, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

Start with both hands on a big, flat jug located on the far right side of the bouldering cave. From here, heel hook your right foot on to the large, flat, starting hold. Then, cross over your head with your right hand to a long flat edge. Fire out left to gain a positive but sloping jug. Adjust your feet. Match hands and then toss left again to a super flat, in-cut jug that leads to the final right/left hand moves to jugs located in the middle of the cave and then step down.

This was one of the main warm-ups for "Sonic Youth" before the advent of the more modern bouldering lines that have since been developed.

For increasing fun and as another potential warm-up at this wall, repeat the beta as stated before only use the smaller crimps found just above the jug system. This would be more like (V3/V4) I think? Still, it's lots of fun!!

Great moves and a nice warm-up. Steep climbing on big moves and holds!!! A must do.

Location

The start in located on the right end of "The New River Wall's" bouldering cave on a big, flat jug.

Protection

Pads and maybe a spot. Quite safe on your own. Take care when the river is frozen!!

Photos

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Luke, if this is the warm up on the far right side, I was always told it was called Infinity, and have been told it is a V0.

Terrific warm up, thanks for the addition. Feb 12, 2010
Luke Childers  
  V1
I am not sure of the true name of the line, but Infinity sounds good to me, Andrew. I just know the line as the old "Sonic Youth" warm-up and just thought I would post the info. So, I had to make up a name to post.... So, thanks for the input and V0 may be right? Depends on the beta and the time of year it's climbed I would think?? However, fun problem and a good warm-up. Thanks for the comments. Feb 17, 2010