Type: Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,634 total · 32/month
Shared By: J. Albers on Dec 26, 2009
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

2018 Update - The road work done on this side of the notch in the summer of 2018 resulted in a chain-link fence being placed across the gully about 25-30 ft up the route. (see Photos)  Presumably the engineers put this in place to prevent rock and ice from falling onto Route 302, although I know of no time any ice actually made it to the road, one boulder did come close.  In any event, climbing the climb from the bottom is next to impossible due to the fence.
  Best approach is to rap in from the top. You only miss the very easy bottom 25-30 ft.   However, please take note of the potential difficulty of any rescue and act accordingly.
  Start at the path to the summer rock climb (at the far left end of the whole rock-cut at the top of the notch) and then break right and follow a crude path of broken branches and the occasional flagging. At one point early on, the approach the path leads close to the top of the cliff where very hard windblown snow/ice may be encountered, so "crampons on" may be a good idea.  Expect about 10 +/- minutes, depending on snow conditions, eventually descending to the top of the climb. Old rap tree was eliminated by the blasting, but a new rap has been established. It's back from the edge so bring some long slings if planning to TR.  
  Once in the gully there is a good belay stance on climber's right just above the fence.

  The blasting has created a new "Left side" flow that as of mid-Dec 2018 ends in rock/mixed (photo).  Also, the now-middle section (that "used to be" the left side ) looks a bit steeper and more continuous than in years past. Right side seemed "3+ ish".

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Original Posting (still true !) :    

Nice route if you have limited time. Probably WI3 to 3+ depending on whether you finish on the right or left side.

Location

Obvious gully starting within the road cut at the top of Crawford Notch. The gully is on the right hand side of the road as you drive up from the Frankenstein area. Park as for other Mount Willard climbs. The approach takes about 3 minutes from the parking area.

Protection

Generally thick ice that takes good screws. You can set an anchor in the trees at the top.

Photos