Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Morrell's Wall

Beat Feet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Epacondilitis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Halloweenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harpoon A Troon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Your Party S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jeff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave It To Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinbad (Variation) T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Space Cadets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbling Dice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White on T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Dargis, Jim Waugh 1977 (pitch 1) John Ficker, Glen Dickinson 1982 (pitch 2)
Page Views: 1,402 total, 14/month
Shared By: roman d on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access: Details

Description

The first pitch is a really fun 5.7 crack on its own. Follow flakes up and left to wide lieback flake, then to a straight in hand crack up to large ledge.

From here you can either rap off a slung pinch point between boulders, or continue to the top of the wall on either Leave it to Beaver, Mutt, Jeff, or Harpoon a Troon.

Mutt follows the left leaning dihedral/undercling (wide pro) to a crux thin crack in a corner and then up face to the top.

It would be wise to bring webbing to reinforce rap stations.

Location

On the far right side of Morrell's is a detached wall with 2 striking cracks on it. The first pitch of Mutt goes up the left hand crack.

To get to the starting ledge for Mutt and Jeff, climb 30' of 5th class through overlapping flakes.

Protection

standard rack + some big pieces for both pitches
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.8+
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.8+
Honestly, the first pitch felt almost like a 5.9. The second pitch was more like 5.7. I'm wondering if someone got the ratings mixed up . . . both pitches being a lot of fun! The top anchors have chains and a rap ring--as do the middle anchors. Sweet Climb!!!

Update: 12/1/15--after time to think and review old ratings, this climb is trickier to protect on the first pitch than several 5.7 climbs in the area and requires large gear to protect from serious injury if you fall. If you are a 5.11 to 5.12 trad climber, it may be difficult to tell if it is 5.7 or 5.8+. I am not that strong, but the first pitch is harder for me than Birthday Party (5.7), Beat Feat (5.7), Dead Meat (5.7), Treiber's Deception (5.7), Black Death (5.8), Mickey Mantle (5.8), and even the bottom half of Chug-a-lug (5.8). The top pitch, also tricky to protect--unless you love Big-bros (as I do)--is an easy 5.6 unless you climb straight up the finger crack to the left of the obvious left-facing dihedral just to the right and after rounding the corner past the wide crack section. With questionable rock quality--with the exception of one or two key gear placements--on that 5.9 crack, I can't imagine opting for such a contrived line when such an obvious alternative is so close. What gives?!? Sorry folks, but I'm not all that impressed with the emperor's fashion sense. Maybe when I can lead solid 5.11 in all styles I will begin to understand the great wisdom of the elders and finally appreciate the emperor's new clothes. Apr 29, 2014