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Routes in Morrell's Wall

Beat Feet T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Epacondilitis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gargoyle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Halloweenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Harpoon A Troon S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
It's Your Party S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Jeff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leave It To Beaver T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinbad (Variation) T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Space Cadets T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tumbling Dice S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
White on T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Zahn, John Ficker, 1984 (Original route), Variation (unknown)
Page Views: 462 total, 9/month
Shared By: Anthony Hugo Almanza on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access: Details

Description

The variation shares the first two bolts with Sinbad, but instead continues up and right through various crimps and edges to a small roof. The next moves require a mantle step up through three more bolts of precision edging and opposing holds. There is a slight run out between the second to third bolt of the crux. When your reach the last of the three crux bolts, the route eases off dramatically in difficulty. From here, you go left on a large flake joining up with the last two bolts of the original Sinbad. The large flake is also an optional gear belay with 4" gear, We broke the pitches up to enjoy the view , with creative runner usage it could be linked safely through a 70m rope. The Rappel is a double rope rap off great anchors with chains.

Location

The start of the ramp of Sinbad, is to the right of the dihedral crack route called Two. First bolt is visible from the deck at approximately 15 feet. From the beat feet area you scramble up and through a short chimney, there will be another route above with a bolt (Jungle Gym), walk right and you will see the crack dihedral.

Protection

A handful of small cams from double zero through yellow C3, and small set of nuts supplement the bolts quite well. We used a number one big bro and blue c4 for the belay; ideally a number four C4 and big bro would be a better combination. The bolts are of older stock, but most of the them are new SMC hangers.

Photos

Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
5.10a/b PG13
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
5.10a/b PG13
Don't even think about falling on the bolt on the upper wall below the last bolt. Fortunately, the crux doesn't come until after clipping the top bolt, which is a very good looking bolt and hanger--I'd say it is a Waugh special--very sturdy and confidence inspiring. Nov 20, 2013