Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: I will get back to you on this
Page Views: 4,115 total · 28/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

48 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Access: Details


Hard crack start that eases up considerably after ~ 6 meters. I found the first 3-4 meters to be the most difficult; the crux is the first 4 meters. NOTE: I think this climb goes at 5.8+.


This climb is the most obvious line on the N, N-E face. Look for a nice hand crack just to the right of Space Cadets. The line passes a small roof to the right and goes up a right facing corner (5.4 climbing). Exit left through a weakness once you surmount a huge block .


Standard Rack. There is a fixed rap station about 20 m (65 ft) up and two hangers with chains at the top of the climb. Thus, you can get off with one or two ropes.


Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
This route is so terrific, it's basically my favorite 5.7 in the state. Stiff for the grade, however, so it's not really 5.7!!! DAS has the rating about right at 8+. Bring a #5 Camalot for the OW at the top. May 1, 2008
Mesa AZ
ClimbPHX.com   Mesa AZ
This route is continous and slippery near the bottom...half way up the crack there is a weird blank section for placing gear...Think I used a BD nut...
The upper pitch has a nice Chimmney section or you can just grab either side of the block and heave up like I did. We did a double rope rappell May 8, 2008
Nick Irvine
Nick Irvine   Flagstaff
WOW! Awesome climb. I thought...yeah right, this start doesn't look slippery. Whoops, fell on my first piece when my foot slipped. Over compensate the # of draws that you think. Does a #5 really protect that squeeze? I had a 4 that I definitely couldn't use. Watch for HUGE drag at the top (big sling?). Careful to stay left on the repel or face a bad edge. Jan 12, 2009
roman d
Pasadena, CA
roman d   Pasadena, CA
Did this again yesterday, and it still felt hard! A C4 #5 protects the upper section just fine, but use a double sling or face bad rope drag at the top. Dec 13, 2009
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Definitely my favorite climb in the McDowells! Such a great line and the pro is solid throughout. 8+ with couple tricky moves down low. But, protects well and felt really great the whole way. #5 was handy, thanks Roman -- soloed and used double ropes to clean and rap and had no problems or drag. Mar 13, 2010
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
  5.8+ PG13
PG-13 is for the off-width near the top. I protected with both a C4-#5 and C4-#4, but still got about 10 ft. above last piece while making somewhat delicate moves near the exit to top. The rest of the climb felt solid for protection. Oct 2, 2010
Just did this route for the first time last weekend. Spectacular. Contrary to the Beta, there is no 2 bolt belay @ halfway, but rather fixed slings and cordage around the nose, and a crack to build anchor with cordalette.A #5 DOES protect the O/W crack on the left of the block up high. make sure to throw a runner on the last couple pieces at the block cause I didnt and had Gnarly rope drag. Single line rapped to the bottom and tied a second rope for my partner to haul up and double rap down...walked off the big block that is right of the start through the chossy chimney. GREAT ROUTE. will do it again. Dec 18, 2010
Tim Heid
Tim Heid   AZ
Great line, perfect pro, and tons of fun, especially done as one pitch. Lots of different techniques used on this one. Make sure you exit left onto the face just after the OW block. Don't follow the chimney up and right.

I will bring new webbing next time I'm up there for the top of P1 soon. The stuff that's there looks okay, but the newest cord is from over a year ago when I replaced it in Jan 2011.

A 70m rope will get you down in 2 raps. The first rap is long and I'm not positive a 60m would make it. Apr 15, 2012
I never found this slippery, go try "Music Box" in JTree then we can talk slippery. #5 was nice for the top but the moves are pretty easy.

What's the slab route to the right with one rusty bolt to start? Aug 27, 2012
Ben Beard
Superior, AZ
Ben Beard   Superior, AZ
a 60m rope does just barely get you to the location of the lower rap station (cordelette), literally inches. Using a 60 meter, we lowered the first person, set the rope to the middle, and with knots in the end, got the 2nd down safely. Be careful.
We didn't bring anything big enough for the block at the end, that was scary! Nov 4, 2012
Tempe, AZ
TravKlein   Tempe, AZ
A must do line in the McDowells. Used a #5 BD nut on the blank section in the middle of the first pitch. In addition to the #5 for the boulder on the second pitch, I also used a #4 at the top of the boulder right before you move left to get to the anchors. Super fun! May 9, 2016
Ryan Borys
The West
Ryan Borys   The West
Best to the roof. Start isn’t slick, there are plenty of edges for feet and there is always the crack. The upper slab is ok. There is loose rock and seams not so good for gear. If you don’t have a piece bigger than a #4 you can still protect the last boulder problem. If you mess up you’ll just deck on the slab, but you won’t totally send it. Throw on a double length sling or a couple single lengths for drag. After, you can place gear and back clean to reduce the drag as you make your way to the anchors up left. Remember to check your knots. Oct 19, 2018