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L'Escamarla
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,939 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
La Siuranella's most popular hard route, and one of the best 13a's at Siurana, L'Escamarla is a classic overhanging jug haul, except for a few brief cruxy sections on brutally rounded edges and challenging feet. All of the lines on this beautiful orange-streaked bulge are extremely photogenic, so tow along a photog to position on the second tier.
Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.
Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.
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