Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,939 total · 24/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do ·

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

La Siuranella's most popular hard route, and one of the best 13a's at Siurana, L'Escamarla is a classic overhanging jug haul, except for a few brief cruxy sections on brutally rounded edges and challenging feet. All of the lines on this beautiful orange-streaked bulge are extremely photogenic, so tow along a photog to position on the second tier.

Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the surprisingly insecure slab to a no-hands stance below the bulge. Big moves between good holds lead up the bulge. Move out right into light gray rock, and follow thin pockets to a good stance. A cruxy, huge reach leads up to more pockets, then the black arete feature out right. Slap up the arete, then make a desparate crux traverse back left on poor crimps & pitiful feet to an awkward pocket. Work up large rounded edges in the orange streak, through a scoop, to gradually improving holds. Get a great rest on the prow, then follow the leaning, pumpy arete to the anchor.

Location

This route is located in the left group of routes, and begins from the first terrace. This is the first line of bolts that touches down to the first terrace after passing the iron ladder. This route shares the slab start with Ramadan, then moves right up the bulge.

Protection

Many bolts, to 2 BA. Stick clip highly recommended.

Photos