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Elevation: 2,250 ft 686 m
GPS: 41.26409, 0.936
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,381 total · 73/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

Description Suggest change

Though far less famous than the cliffs across the valley, La Siuranella offers a great collection of high quality routes, including some of Siurana's best pitches. The cliff is remote by local standards, and perhaps for this reason, it sees relatively little action while nearby cliffs teem with hordes of sun-burnt climbers. The routes are somewhat spread out, with the vast concentration on the left end of the cliff, and another small grouping at the far right, directly across from L'Olla. For many years La Siuranella offered only a handful of routes, but a recent surge in development has brought the number of routes to around 30, with grades ranging from 5.10 to 5.13+, and everything in between.

Unlike the bulk of Siurana's cliffs, La Siuranella faces East, and so receives shade most of the day, making this a great option on hot days. The cliff base is somewhat disjointed, and most routes begin from one of the ledges that run along the bottom of the cliff. A Via Ferrata system exists to expedite approaches between climbs, making the ledge business only a minor inconvenience.

When viewing the cliff from across the canyon, the first features to catch the eye are the enormous parallel corners of Diedre Roig (L) & Diedre Blanc (R). The primary concentration of routes, located to the left of Diedre Roig, surrounds the brilliant orange bulge of "Ramadan" (8b/5.13d) and its highly popular neighbor "L'Escamarla" (7c+/5.13a). The other group is located well to the right of Diedre Blanc, and features a small number of mostly 5.13 routes, in particular the classic "Outback" (7c+ or 8a+ with extension).

Getting There Suggest change

Park in the Valley Crags parking lot, as for Espero Primavera, L'Olla, etc. Follow the trail to Espero Primavera, and once at the cliff, continue west along the cliff base trail. The trail descends, and passes around an enormous detached pillar. To the left of the pillar is the tall orange wall of El Cargol, and the legendary overhanging cliff of El Pati left of that. Follow the main track for about 40 yds after passing the base of the big tower. Turn left onto a good trail. This trail heads North through the brush, and seems to be heading the wrong way, towards L'Olla. Eventually you will need to downclimb a 3' high stone wall to reach the bottom of the canyon. Make a hairpin turn here, staying on the main track, which heads back towards the left end of La Siuranella. The trail eventually climbs up to join La Siuranella just below Diedre Blanc. To reach the left side routes, head left along the cliff base. After ~20 yards, the trail climbs up to the first terrace, avoiding a talus field below. Traverse with care to an iron ladder in the rock that is used to reach the second terrace.

19 Total Climbs

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Location: Siuranella Este Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Siuranella Este

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
La Discórdia
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
D'estranquis
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
La Marca del Sorru
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Pocapena
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Border line
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 4
La Fiesta del Mondongo
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Gravetat Marciana
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Junta Culata
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Hastala Fixe de la Polla
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 24
Lo Deje to Blanco
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 12
Brigadistak
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 9
Teoria Punset
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
Avance Cangrejo
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 17
L'Escamarla
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
La Discórdia
 8
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
D'estranquis
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
La Marca del Sorru
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pocapena
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Border line
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
La Fiesta del Mondongo
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Gravetat Marciana
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Junta Culata
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hastala Fixe de la Polla
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Lo Deje to Blanco
 24
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Brigadistak
 12
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Teoria Punset
 9
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Avance Cangrejo
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
L'Escamarla
 17
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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